If you love history, art, and great food, Washington County is a must-visit. Visit the largest city and cultural hub, Johnson City and the oldest, Jonesborough, once capital of the lost state of Franklin. Did you know we once had a state named Franklin? I learned about it here. Washington County was once part of North Carolina. As settlers came over the Appalachians, they tried to form the state of Franklin. North Carolina troops defeated the Franklinites in a battle at Johnson City and ended Franklin. Washington County later became part of Tennessee.
Johnson City Visitor Center is the place to start. It combines an information hub with a museum. The center is in a 1909 train depot on the corner of Buffalo Street and State of Franklin Road..
Johnson City Railroad Experience
Why go: Dr. Fred Alsop, Director and President, showed me around Johnson City Railroad Experience museum. Ladies, if you think model railroads are just for guys, think again. This museum is a work of art.
What not to miss: The detail that goes into building the trains, miniature towns, and people, are amazing. Plus, it details the history of rail transportation during the late 1800s and early 1900s that helped build Johnson City.
Gray Fossil Site And Hands On! Discovery Center
Why Go: In May 2000 when the Transportation Department was grading to put in a road and came across a black clay pit like nothing the geologists had seen around here before, road construction came to a halt. Preliminary digging found some fossils and scientists believed it was an Ice Age site, but when they found an alligator skull, they knew it was too cold for alligators during the Ice Age. When they found the almost-complete rhino fossil in 2004, they knew it was a Miocene or Pliocene site that was once a pond where these prehistoric animals came to drink.
What not to miss: Gray Fossil Site came under the care of East Tennessee State University. Matthew Inabinett, Collections Manager, took me around the site and through the labs. This is one of the few sites that allows public access to those areas. You’ll learn about the site’s history and see real-time digging and research. The Hands On! Discovery Center opened in August 2007 to help both people understand the fossil site.
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She Buys Travel Tip: Ask to see the real mastodon bones.
Tipton-Haynes State Historic Site
Why go: In colonial times, North Carolina stretched from the coast to the Mississippi River, with the Appalachian Mountains marking a boundary promised to the Cherokee. Despite this, settlers crossed the mountains, made their own deals with the Cherokee, and after the Revolution, grew frustrated when North Carolina tried to sell their land to speculators to pay war debts. Discontented settlers met in Jonesborough, electing John Sevier as governor of the breakaway State of Franklin in the 1780s, and made Jonesborough its capital. Their 1785 petition for statehood angered North Carolina; they ordered Col. Tipton’s troops to retake the area.
The 1788 battle at John Tipton’s home, began when Sheriff Jonathan Pugh seized Siever’s property, including enslaved people. Sevier arrived to reclaim them, leading to skirmishes until a snowstorm forced him to retreat. By early 1789, the State of Franklin collapsed and reverted to North Carolina, who ceded it to the federal government. It later became Tennessee. Sevier was Tennessee’s first governor in 1796.
What not to miss: Touring the Tipton Hayes site, you see the buildings that were on the site then, later additions, and a museum telling this story.
She Buys Travel Tip: If you feel like some extra walking go see the cave on the property.
Downtown Johnson City
Why go: Johnson City has a walkable small-town feel.
What not to miss: There’re murals, historic buildings, restaurants, parks, and lots of public art. I strolled through Founders Park and admired the rotating public sculptures. Kings Commons is another downtown park. I discovered some interesting stores downtown. Places like Lazy Lady Baking Company, with its own public art gallery; Pieres Marketplace, selling local groceries;Terrarium, selling live plants; Sentimental Journey, for antique lovers; Capone’s, a concert venue that gives a nod to stories about Al Capone spending a lot of time in Johnson City, earning it the nickname Little Chicago.
Historic Jonesborough
Why go: Historic Jonesborough Visitors Center is the place to start. Jonesborough has plenty history, once part of North Carolina, once capital of Franklin, and a hunting ground for Daniel Boone and Andrew Jackson; it’s the oldest town in Tennessee. Jackson first practiced law here. The Christopher Taylor House where he lived has a historic marker in front.
What not to miss: Exploring the museum in the center.
Chester Inn State Historic Site and Museum
Why go: I loved touring the Chester Inn State Historic Site and Museum, the oldest building in Jonesborough’s commercial historic district.
What not to miss: Downstairs is the museum. Upstairs is a hidden treasure. An inn where three presidents once stayed; Jackson, Polk, and Andrew Johnson. Dr. Chester built the Inn in 1797. Ladies didn’t travel alone those days, and the rooms here were often shared by multiple guests.
Mary B. Martin Storytelling Hall
Why go: Jonesborough is the International Storytelling Capital of the World.
What not to miss: Storytelling Live Performance series is held every afternoon at 2 p.m. (Tuesday – Saturday) from May through October. When I visited, Pippa White presented “Women of the Civil War.” She told historic events through the voices of women like Harriet Beecher Stowe, Clara Barton, Harriet Tubman and other unsung Civil War heroines.
Jackson Theatre
Why go: A visit to Jackson Theater is like stepping back to our childhood and enjoying a movie at our neighborhood theater for those of us of a certain age. The theater began in the 1920s when L.M. Broyles began showing silent movies at his furniture store. That was so successful he opened the Blue Mouse Theatre in 1922. It closed for a while and reopened as the Jackson Theatre on August 30, 1945.
What not to miss: Today it hosts live music concerts and classic movies Tuesday thru Saturday, 11AM to 2PM and opens an hour before show times.
Food and Drink
There’s no shortage of great foodie spots here. Here are a few I visited and enjoyed.
- Faithful Fields Farm-A regenerative farm. Products: farm fresh meat, poultry and eggs.
- Farmer’s market Jonesborough-Saturdays May through October 8-12. Food and crafts. All products made by sellers.
- The Philosopher’s House-A tea house and social gathering place. Lots of teas and a few coffees.
- Cootie Brown’s-three locations.Serves lunch and dinner. I loved the grilled gulf shrimp ( nine on a skewer) served over brown rice with two sides.
- Pennyman’s Diner– Traditional diner. Breakfast and lunch. Traditional eggs are great here.
- Label Restaurant – Lunch and dinner. Good mix of traditional and international food. I had shrimp and grits topped with a fried green tomato. They serve cocktails.
- The Firehouse Restaurant – Lunch and dinner. Specializes in BBQ, but the chicken strips are delicious. Housed in a former firehouse.
She Buys Travel tip: Don’t miss the fire engine in the back dining room. - Gourmet and Company – Lunch and dinner plus retail. Upscale fine dining and cocktails. Salads are fantastic and filling.
- Wellington’s Restaurant – Carnegie Hotel restaurant. Filling and delicious breakfast with two eggs, toast, bacon, grits, and potatoes.
- Freiberg’s German Restaurant – Favorites here are pretzels with mustard and cheese-beer dip; for dessert have the apple strudel with ice cream.
- The Black Olive – Chef driven all day restaurant serves Italian dishes made with locally grown and organically sourced ingredients. I had an incredible Strawberry Banana Pecan Crepe for breakfast.
- The Windsor Speakeasy – Truly a hidden treasure as there’s no sign at 220 West Market Street. Inside it’s dark and cozy and serves delicious drinks. I had a coconut rum and pineapple juice.
- Yee Haw Brewery – Housed in a former train depot they serve more than brews. Try the tacos or pretzels.
- Main Street Café – Jonesborough. True cafe style where you order at the counter. Lunch only. The chicken salad and dark chocolate gelato are fantastic.
- The Lollipop Shop of Jonesborough – Even if you don’t like candy this is a must-visit place. You’ll find Darth Vader, Yoda, Batman, and more characters inside beside delicious candies.
Lodging- Carnegie Hotel
Why go: The original Carnegie Hotel first opened in Johnson City, September 27th, 1891 and burned down April 3rd, 1910. Today’s replica is so accurate with its traditional decor, antique piano, Tiffany-style lamps, wooden sleigh beds in the rooms, and dark wood lobby feel like a 19th century grand hotel, except it has all the modern amenities.
What not to miss: Besides all the comforts of your room or suite, enjoy the pool, fitness room, and restaurant with an antique bar. Enjoy free parking and a relaxing outdoor patio.
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