What the Locals Know: The Umstead Delivers Sophisticated Luxury in The Triangle

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Rear facade of The Umstead Hotel and Spa, a luxury boutique property located in Cary, North Carolina.
Guest rooms at The Umstead feature generous balconies or patios ideal for morning coffee or sunset sips. Photo credit: Cathy Bennett Kopf

Hubby and I discovered there’s more to The Triangle than tech and textbooks when we splurged on a 5-star minibreak at The Umstead Hotel and Spa in Cary, North Carolina. The region is a sprawling R&D tech hub with more than 300 companies attracting year-round business travelers. Our first visits to The Triangle were college trips with our teens to tour three of the legendary Tobacco Road universities: Duke, the University of North Carolina and NC State.

This time, we took an easy one-hour flight from NYC to Raleigh for a weekend getaway to unwind while visiting family who recently moved to the area. We could have booked one of the many chain hotels dotting The Triangle. By choosing The Umstead, a popular staycation destination for locals, we elevated our quick trip into a luxurious indulgence.

Overall Impressions of The Umstead

Sun dappled lounge at The Umstead Hotel and Spa, a luxury property in NC's Research Triangle.
A Chihuly glass sculpture is featured in The Umstead’s comfortable sun-soaked lounge. Photo credit: Cathy Bennett Kopf
  • Secluded, yet accessible. The Umstead Hotel and Spa shares a wooded, 900-acre campus with SAS Institute, one of The Triangle’s foremost companies, five minutes from Raleigh-Durham International Airport (RDU) off Interstate 40.
  • Timeless, not trendy. Details matter at The Umstead. I watched a suited supervisor whisk a cloth from his pocket and wipe fingerprints off a glass door. You’ll find physical newspapers in the lobby, wedding-worthy fresh floral displays and an exquisite nightly turndown service.

The Umstead is an independent hotel, built by Ann and Dr. Jim Goodnight, to fill a void in the luxury lodging market in The Triangle. Ann drew her design inspiration for the property from the San Francisco Four Seasons. She contracted Massachusetts interior designer Frank Nicholson, Inc. and the lighting experts they used to achieve a similar ambiance.

SheBuysTravel Tip: Ease into your experience at The Umstead. Enjoy on-site amenities such as the bar and lounge, gift shop and pool before your check-in at 3 pm to make the most of your stay. Leave your bags at the front desk and they’ll be delivered to your room when it’s ready.

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Who’ll Love The Umstead

Early morning aerial view of the outdoor pool at The Umstead Hotel and Spa in Cary, NC.
There are sun and shade options surrounding The Umstead’s seasonal outdoor pool. Photo credit: Cathy Bennett Kopf

I spent most of my time at The Umstead in the outdoor saltwater pool, floating while sipping the weekend’s featured cocktail made with elderberries and sage grown on the hotel’s culinary farm. I chatted with many of the guests, nearly all of whom were local residents staycationing at the hotel for:

  • Babymoons
  • Romantic getaways
  • Girlfriend spa trips
  • Family college tours

If you’re an American Express Platinum or Centurion cardholder, you’ll love that The Umstead participates in the Fine Hotels + Resorts program. Book directly on Amex to receive a suite of benefits, including:

  • Welcome Amenity
  • $100 Property Credit
  • Early check-in at noon ( when available)
  • Late checkout at 4 pm
  • Complimentary room upgrade (when available)

SheBuysTravel Tip: The Umstead might not be the right fit if you’re vacationing with small children. There is no kids’ club or daily schedule of family activities as you’d find in a large, full-service resort.

Rooms at The Umstead

Spa level suite at The Umstead in Cary, North Carolina
Hubby and I had plenty of room to spread out in our spacious suite. Photo credit: Cathy Bennett Kopf

My nephew has lived in The Triangle for more than 20 years. He’d always assumed The Umstead was a large, conference property. Although business travelers frequent the hotel, it’s a boutique retreat with 150 rooms generously sized for leisure guests.

Our 650-square-foot spa-level suite felt massive. It featured a cozy seating area with a queen-size sleeper sofa and two lounge chairs plus a round dining table ideal for enjoying room service. The bathroom had a large, two-sink vanity, toilet room, standing shower and deep soaking tub. Complimentary amenities included bath salts, a nail file, dental kit and shower cap, all tucked away in the vanity drawer.

The room’s patio extended the living area. Lush hedges provided privacy even though our room was steps from the pool and spa.

Private patio with chaise lounge and loveseat outside a spa level king room at The Umstead hotel.
Wake up to birdsong outside a spa-level suite at The Umstead. Photo credit: Cathy Bennett Kopf

Non-suite rooms with a king size bed or two doubles are also available and may include balconies overlooking the property’s three-acre lake.

Included Amenties (all categories):

  • 42-inch plasma screen TV
  • Mini bar
  • Double sink vanity
  • Deep soak tub
  • Separate standing shower
  • Marble bathroom floors
  • In-room safe
  • Complimentary wifi
  • Desk
  • Complimentary shoe shine
  • Pets welcome ($200 deep cleaning fee assessed at checkout)

The minibar has an abundant selection of drinks, snacks and a VertuoLine Nespresso Machine. Morning coffee is also available outside of Herons restaurant. Refillable water bottles are provided to guests for use on property. Filling stations are on each floor.

SheBuysTravel Tip: Housekeeping will ask if you would like evening turndown service. Don’t skip it. You’ll return to find a crackling fire on the TV, plush robes ready for resting and chocolate truffles on your pillow.

Onsite Dining

Heron sculpture marks the entrance to The Umstead's fine dining restaurant in Cary, NC.
Herons is open for breakfast, weekend brunch, lunch and dinner. Photo credit: Cathy Bennett Kopf

Summarizing the awards Herons restaurant has accumulated since opening in 2007 would eat up my entire word count, so I’ll just say they’re well-deserved. The intimate space is art-filled with floor-to-ceiling windows framing the hotel landscape. Seating at tables or banquettes provides views of the open kitchen, which looked as lovely as a spa treatment room.

Crab cake Benedict at Herons restaurant at The Umstead hotel.
Splurge on breakfast at Herons during your stay at The Umstead. Photo credit: Cathy Bennett Kopf

Our busy schedule with family did not leave us time to try Herons’ four-course prix fixe dinner menu. However, I made sure to book breakfast before our departure. A team of friendly servers kept us caffeinated and hydrated. A complimentary amuse bouche vitality juice preceded my crab cake Benedict starring two perfectly poached eggs atop blue crab and porchetta, drizzled with a champagne hollandaise. Although tempted to add biscuits because, well, it’s the South, I chose fresh berries so I could feel virtuous the rest of the day.

Definitely make a reservation for dinner or brunch in advance of your trip. If you get shut out, the Herons menu is available in the adjoining bar and lounge.

SheBuysTravel Tip: Although jackets are not required at Herons, ithe hotel asks that guests dress suitably for the luxury dining experience. At breakfast, we felt comfortable in business casual outfits – my husband wore jeans and a collared polo and I went with linen pants and a simple top.

Lounge space at The Umstead hotel and spa in Cary, NC.
A harpist entertains during afternoons in The Umstead lounge. Photo credit: Cathy Bennett Kopf

Additional Dining Notes

  • 24-hour room service is available. Menu items vary depending on time of day.
  • Afternoon tea service by reservation is a delightful option. Scones, sandwiches and sweets accompany your choice of brew.
  • Food and beverage service at the pool means you never have to leave your lounger during the warm weather seasons.

Special Events

Paintings by artist Lynn Boggess on display at The Umstead.
The Umstead rotates the exhibits in its art gallery quarterly. Photo credit: Cathy Bennett Kopf

In advance of your stay, check the resort’s events calendar. Seasonal activities, such as the Umstead Uncorked wine tastings, require non-refundable reservations. The schedule might include:

  • Reception for artists featured in the Umstead’s rotating exhibit space in the second entrance lobby
  • Sunset Floating Soundbath Experience by the pool
  • Chef dinners at Herons restaurant

Onsite Amenities/Activities

As North Carolina’s only Forbes 5-star resort, The Umstead has a wealth of onsite amenities and activities so guests can enjoy a complete vacation without stepping off property.

The Spa

The Umstead spa reception area and boutique.
A tranquil journey through The Umstead Spa, where innovation meets serenity, begins at reception in the boutique. Photo credit: Photograph by Andrew Rugge. Copyright Perkins Eastman

One of the key draws is the resort’s 16,000-square-foot spa. Body treatments, massage therapies and facials draw upon The Umstead’s pine groves and lakefront for inspiration. Plan time before or after your service to enjoy the spa facilities.

Looking for the ultimate splurge? The 90-minute Spa Wave Ritual begins with a soothing Chromotherapy Bath, followed by a full-body massage and concludes with the deeply immersive Spa Wave experience. Using acoustic sound waves and composed music, the Spa Wave promotes mindfulness, meditation and profound relaxation, an unforgettable reset for both body and mind.

Spa day passes are available for $195, based on availability, and include access to the sauna, steam room, hot tubs, co-ed pool, women’s/men’s lounges, co-ed lounge and meditation courtyard.

SheBuysTravel Tip: If you definitely want a spa treatment during your stay, I recommend that you book far in advance. However, cancellations do occur so check in with spa reception to see if a slot is available.

Seasonal Outdoor Pool

Pool cabanas at The Umstead, available by reservation.
If you know you’re going to spend your time at the pool, reserve a cabana for the day. Photo credit: Cathy Bennett Kopf

The Umstead saltwater pool, open and heated from March-December, has everything you expect at a luxury resort: plenty of shaded lounge chairs, towel service, private cabanas for rent and seasonal pool bar. The outdoor hot tub is open year-round.

If you decide to hang around the pool on check-out day, you can use the outdoor shower and locker room facilities to freshen up before departure.

Note: There is no indoor pool at the hotel.

24/7 Fitness Center

Fitness equipment in The Umstead's 24/7 gym.
The fitness center at The Umstead works for gym rats or casual exercise enthusiasts. Photo credit: Cathy Bennett Kopf

If you never miss a workout, you’ll appreciate the strength training equipment, Peloton bikes and mat space for stretching. Saturday yoga classes are offered at 8 am as long as three or more guests register by Thursday each week.

Enjoy the Great Outdoors

Stroll along the resort’s quarter-mile lakefront walking trail. Or pedal on one of the complimentary bikes. Guided 30-minute nature walks are offered once daily Monday–Friday or by reservation.

SheBuysTravel Tip: Want to spend extended time in the great outdoors? William B. Umstead State Park has miles of hiking, walking and biking trails.

What’s Nearby

You’ll have a hard time tearing yourself away from the hotel. But The Triangle has a wide range of attractions you’ll want to explore.

Sports Fans

Outfield view of the Durham Bulls minor league baseball stadium.
Catch a Durham Bulls baseball game if you’re visiting in summer. Photo credit: Cathy Bennett Kopf
  • Thanks to Kevin Costner, the Durham Bulls might be the most famous minor league baseball team in America. Catch them in action March–September.
  • If you want to understand the depth of the Tobacco Road rivalry between Duke and UNC, attend a college basketball game on either campus.
  • The PNC Arena in Raleigh is home to the NHL Carolina Hurricanes who won the Stanley Cup in 2006.

Music and Culture Lovers

Statue at the NC Museum of Arts in Raleigh, North Carolina near The Umstead Hotel.
The state-funded, free-admission North Carolina Museum of Art has indoor galleries and an outdoor sculpture park. Photo credit: Cathy Bennett Kopf

Tastes of The South

Interior of State Farmers Market restaurant in Raleigh, NC.
Expect to wait at least 15 minutes for a Sunday morning table at the State Farmers Market restaurant in Raleigh. Photo credit: Cathy Bennett Kopf
  • Don’t leave the Tarheel State without sampling pork barbecue with the region’s signature vinegar-based sauce. We chose a hole in the wall. Ole Time Barbecue had solid pulled pork and fried chicken, can’t stop at one hush hushpuppies and Ben’s Bangin’ Baked Beans.
  • Swing by the State Farmers Market to gawk at the abundant local produce. The biscuits at the market restaurant are hands down the best I’ve ever tried and I will spend the rest of my days trying to replicate them.
  • For 65 years the Angus Barn steakhouse is where the locals go to celebrate special occasions. Twinkle lights drip from the ceilings and the famous Wild Turkey Lounge is filled with trophy fowl.

Retail Therapy

  • The Arboretum at Weston and Fenton are two upscale shopping and entertainment complexes near The Umstead.
  • The North Carolina Museum of Art has a wonderful gift shop, featuring the work of local artisans. If you’re visiting on the first Saturday of the month, Triangle Pop Up markets are held on the museum’s Gipson Plaza between 11 am and 4 pm. 

Getting to The Umstead

Umstead hotel lobby with dramatic rose centerpiece.
The Umstead changes floral displays, created by local studio Watered Garden, on Thursdays. Photo credit: Cathy Bennett Kopf

If you’re flying to The Triangle, The Umstead is a quick, 5-minute drive from Raleigh-Durham International Airport (RDU). There is no complimentary airport shuttle. However, the Hotel Concierge can arrange airport transfers with EcoStyle, a Raleigh executive transportation service.

The hotel house car can pick up and drop off guests at nearby shopping centers, based on availability. Rideshare services and taxis are readily available too.

Guests arriving by car can choose to self-park or use the complimentary valet service at the front entrance.

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Cathy Bennett Kopf serves as the Daily Editor of SheBuysTravel, reporting to Editor-in-Chief Cindy Richards. She began travel writing after serving as the unofficial (and unpaid) vacation coordinator for hundreds of family and friend trips. She launched her blog, The Open Suitcase, in 2012 and joined the SBT (formerly TravelingMom) team in 2016. A lifelong resident of New York, Cathy currently resides in the scenic Hudson River Valley. She’s a member of the Society of American Travel Writers, the International Travel Writers Alliance and TravMedia.
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