Africa Archives | She Buys Travel https://shebuystravel.com/vacation-destinations/africa/ SheBuysTravel is travel information & shopping for women traveling together, solo or with families. Thu, 02 Oct 2025 16:33:36 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://media.shebuystravel.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/30191110/cropped-she-buys-travel_favicon-32x32.png Africa Archives | She Buys Travel https://shebuystravel.com/vacation-destinations/africa/ 32 32 She Buys Travel https://media.shebuystravel.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/03183457/SheBuys-Travel_R-HighRes-Color.png https://shebuystravel.com 144 142 SheBuysTravel.com Traveling to Morocco with Kids: 11 Smart Travel Tips https://shebuystravel.com/morocco-with-kids/ https://shebuystravel.com/morocco-with-kids/#respond Mon, 29 Sep 2025 19:56:31 +0000 https://shebuystravel.com/?p=448687

My husband and I wanted an adventure with our four-year-old daughter that would spark cultural curiosity, stimulate the senses and pull us waaaaay out of our suburban routine. Morocco delivered. From...

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My husband and I wanted an adventure with our four-year-old daughter that would spark cultural curiosity, stimulate the senses and pull us waaaaay out of our suburban routine.

Morocco delivered. From camel rides in the Sahara to exploring ancient souks to feasting on flavorful tagines, it was immersive, exciting—and very family-friendly.

Turns out we’re part of a growing trend: Morocco saw 17.4 million visitors in 2024—a 20 percent jump from the year before—with more families, like ours, seeking meaningful travel beyond the typical vacation.

If you’re planning a trip to Morocco with kids, these tips drawn from our family adventure will help you create a memorable journey.

Book early

A family sits beside a camel in the Sahara desert of Morocco.
A vacation highlight was spending time at a Sahara Desert camp and riding camels. Photo credit: Erica Bray

We started planning a year ahead, and it paid off. Family-style rooms (think: multiple beds, connecting spaces or traditional Moroccan riads with room to breathe) are in short supply and high demand. Booking early gave us better options and peace of mind.

We also wanted an itinerary that fit our style: culturally rich, not too rushed and tailored for traveling Morocco with kids. After interviewing a few Morocco travel specialists—comparing their know-how, communication and pricing—we went with Abercrombie & Kent. They nailed it with an 11-day journey from Tangier to Marrakech that included Chefchaouen, Fes, Erfoud, a luxury Sahara desert camp and Skoura.

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Know when to go

A young girl overlooks the blue-colored town of Chefchaouen in Morocco.
My daughter takes in the view of Chefchaouen, also known as the “Blue Pearl of Morocco,” from our hotel balcony. Photo credit: Erica Bray


We chose spring, right after Ramadan and before Easter. Most locals and Morocco travel experts agree this is the best time to go for several reasons:

  • Weather. Spring brings the most pleasant weather across the cities, desert and mountains. Summer temps in places such as Marrakech can soar above 100 degrees Fahrenheit, while winter in the mountains and desert can dip below freezing. Nothing derails a day faster than a cranky kid who’s too hot or too cold.
  • Cultural timing. As a Muslim country, Morocco observes Ramadan, which shifts each year. Traveling just after Ramadan means you’ll miss any fasting-related closures.
  • Spring break. If the calendar aligns, you can plan around a school break. (We pulled our daughter out of pre-K for two weeks—totally worth it.)

Hire a local guide

A local guide stands before a famous mosque in Marrakech, explaining its history to a male tourist as a young girl plays.
Our guide balanced the needs of our family throughout the journey. Photo credit: Erica Bray


Having a local guide (along with a private driver) with us the entire trip was one of the best decisions we made. I recommend it to any family exploring Morocco with kids. Here’s why:

  • Language and cultural bridge. We speak neither Arabic nor French, Morocco’s two main languages. Our guide helped us navigate everything from menus to markets and smoothed over cultural moments that might’ve felt overwhelming on our own.
  • Insider access. Our guide, Ghali—arranged through Abercrombie & Kent—met us at the airport and stayed with us for the entire journey. He opened doors to places and experiences we never would’ve found on our own.
  • Stress-free travel. Morocco felt wonderfully welcoming and safe, but having a guide and a driver helped us avoid potentially uncomfortable situations—such as navigating foreign roads or being asked for bribes (something that actually happened to a relative of ours). With a local by our side, we could focus on our daughter and enjoy the journey without worry.

We specifically requested a guide who had experience working with families. As a father himself, Ghali intuitively understood the rhythms of traveling with a young child. When our daughter needed to run off energy at the Koutoubia Mosque in Marrakech, he kept the tour going—sharing history with us while she joyfully ran circles around my husband.

SheBuysTravel Tip: If you’re looking for a guide just for a day or two, choose someone licensed by Morocco’s Ministry of Tourism. Ask to see their license, agree on terms in advance and rely on word-of-mouth or well-reviewed services to ensure a smooth and safe experience.


Be realistic with your itinerary

A father and daughter walk amidst the towering ochre-colored desert dunes of Morocco's Sahara.
A father-daughter moment in Morocco’s Sahara Desert, where we explored the dunes by foot and by camel. Photo credit: Erica Bray


Morocco is larger than many expect—roughly the size of California—and its landscapes are just as varied. You’re unlikely to see it all. Prioritize what feels most meaningful for your family and be honest about how your children handle time in transit.

Consider your kids’ travel style, too. Our daughter had a few international trips under her belt and handles long drives well (especially with some iPad time), so we felt comfortable covering more ground. But if your child thrives on routine or tires easily, it may be better to slow down and base yourselves in one place.

Remember: The smoothest trips often come from matching the pace to your child, not the guidebook.

Plan kid-friendly activities

A young girl receives henna on her arm by an artist in Morocco.
My daughter received henna artwork from a local artist in Marrakech. Photo credit: Erica Bray


We tailored activities to match our daughter’s interests and stamina. Abercrombie & Kent prearranged most of these kid-appropriate activities, some based on tips I gleaned from family travel forums about Morocco. Highlights included:

  • Camel riding in the Sahara. We rode camels at sunset and again at sunrise while staying at a luxury desert camp in the Sahara. Our daughter rode with my husband, and from behind me, I could hear her giggling: “This is the best day ever!”
  • Henna art in Marrakech. A local artist applied henna designs to our hands and arms while we sipped mint tea in a beautifully decorated riad. It was a huge hit with our little budding artist, who’s obsessed with face paint and temporary tattoos.
  • Fossil hunting in Erfoud. Our dinosaur-loving daughter was thrilled to stop at a local fossil workshop in Erfoud. While she marveled at ancient marine fossils, we got an unexpected crash course in local geology. She left proudly clutching a shark tooth and a few small gems as souvenirs.
  • Shopping the souks. Our daughter wandered wide-eyed through the souks of Fes and Marrakech with us. From towering spice pyramids to trotting donkeys and glittering kaftans, every corner offered a new sensory surprise. A standout moment: in Fes, the staff at a rug shop gave her a spontaneous “magic carpet ride,” gently swinging her inside an unfurled rug.
  • A mountain meal with Berbers. High in the Atlas Mountains, we spent time in the home of a Berber woman who welcomed us into her kitchen for a memorable cultural exchange. She taught us how to make flatbread, mint tea and a traditional Berber omelet. Our daughter “helped” with the prep, tasted mint tea for the first time and laughed as we were dressed in traditional Berber clothing.
  • Ceramics workshop in Fes. At Art D’Argile, we watched artisans mold clay, hand-chisel glazed terracotta, and paint intricate designs. They even invited our daughter to paint a tiny tagine alongside them—pure magic for our art-obsessed child.
  • Visiting a local school. Our guide arranged for us to visit a school in Fes. Our daughter was invited to say “hello” to the class and meet the teacher—a simple, beautiful moment of connection.
  • Drum-making workshop. A local artisan taught us how to hand-stretch goat hides to make drums. It was slimy, slippery and hilarious—my husband and I ended up doing most of the work while our daughter giggled. We each walked away with three handmade drums, now proudly displayed in our living room.

Prep kids before the trip

A young girl dressed as Princess Jasmine from the Disney film "Aladdin" sits on a plush couch near a window.
A whole new world! Channeling “Princess Jasmine” in a lush Moroccan oasis. Photo credit: Erica Bray


In the months leading up to our trip, we made Morocco part of everyday conversation to help our daughter feel excited and prepared.

We read age-appropriate books about Moroccan culture and landscapes; watched YouTube videos that featured kids exploring the country; and even practiced a few Arabic phrases together. “Shokran”—thank you—turned out to be especially handy and hearing it come from a child’s mouth never failed to inspire a smile from locals.

This exposure gave her a sense of familiarity once we were on the ground.

SheBuysTravel Tip: I worked with our local librarian to find books that helped my daughter learn about Morocco.

Try Moroccan food ahead of time

A colorful assortment of Moroccan food on a table,
Exploring the flavors of Morocco was a fun part of our family’s adventure. Photo credit: Erica Bray

We made a few visits to a Moroccan restaurant in nearby Chicago, giving us all a chance to explore the flavors, textures and spices. It also helped us figure out which dishes our daughter genuinely enjoyed.

Her favorite? Chicken pastilla—a sweet-savory pie made with spiced meat (often chicken or pigeon), wrapped in layers of flaky pastry, dusted with cinnamon and powdered sugar. It became her go-to dish throughout the trip.

That said, Morocco is surprisingly kid-friendly when it comes to food. Thanks to our guide’s insight, most restaurants we visited had children’s menus with familiar options such as chicken nuggets and fries.

SheBuysTravel Tip: We packed small peanut butter packets as a backup for snack emergencies—perfect for spreading on bread when nothing else hit the spot.

Pack strategically

A man pushes a young girl in a stroller through a market in Marrakech, Morocco.
Our travel stroller made it easier to explore the bustling Jemaa el-Fnaa in Marrakech. Photo credit: Erica Bray


When traveling with kids—especially in a foreign country like Morocco—being prepared can make all the difference. Items that kept our kiddo calm, comfortable and entertained included:

  • A comfort item (think: stuffed animal or blanket)
  • Lightweight layers for shifting temps and sun protection
  • Modest clothing to help everyone blend in and feel at ease
  • Compact stroller for long walks and airport dashes
  • Sticker books, crayons and downloaded shows for downtime
  • Snacks for hunger emergencies and long drives
  • White noise machine for unfamiliar sleep settings

SheBuysTravel Tip: Learn about laundry options available at your accommodations ahead of time to avoid overpacking.


Consult your pediatrician

A young girl touches mosaic art on a building in Morocco.
Morocco’s colorful mosaics sparked endless fascination. Photo credit: Erica Bray


A quick check-in with our daughter’s pediatrician gave us peace of mind and helped us feel better prepared for potential health hiccups abroad. Here’s what we covered at our pre-trip appointment:

  • Vaccinations. We made sure our daughter was up to date on routine vaccines and asked about any region-specific ones. (While Morocco doesn’t require special vaccinations, your doctor may recommend Hepatitis A or Typhoid depending on your itinerary.)
  • Tummy troubles. Our pediatrician prescribed a child-safe antidiarrheal and rehydration solution—just in case. We were lucky not to need it, but it was reassuring to have.
  • Food and water safety tips. We avoided ice and only drank bottled water—even using it to brush our teeth. Our doctor also reminded us to wash hands often and carry sanitizer for meals on the go.
  • Sun protection. Morocco can be hot and sunny, even in winter. We packed a sunscreen our daughter’s skin tolerated well, along with a wide-brim hat and light layers.


SheBuysTravel Tip: We always buy travel insurance for international trips—mainly because most U.S. health plans don’t cover care abroad. We also added a Medjet policy for emergency transport. Thankfully, we didn’t need either, but having that protection gave us peace of mind.

Carry local cash

Colorful spices in the market of Marrakech, Morocco, spelling out "Love" and "Marrakech."
Morocco’s souks are a technicolor backdrop for wandering and shopping. Photo credit: Erica Bray


Morocco is largely a cash-based economy, especially outside major cities. While credit cards are accepted at higher-end hotels and restaurants, we relied on cash for most day-to-day purchases.

We arrived with some Moroccan dirhams already in hand—enough to cover meals and tips for our first day or two. (Morocco’s airports also have ATMs.) While in-country, we used only reputable ATMs inside banks or hotels to withdraw more as needed.

SheBuysTravel Tip: Be aware that ATM fees can add up, so check with your bank about international withdrawal charges and consider bringing a no-fee travel card to minimize costs and hassles on the ground.

Make tipping meaningful

A young girl hands a tip envelope to two men wearing red turbans and white attire, staff at a luxury desert camp in the Sahara of Morocco.
My daughter delivers a well-deserved tip to the staff at our luxury desert camp in the Sahara. Photo credit: Erica Bray


In Morocco, tips are both appreciated and generally expected. We knew we’d be tipping our guide and driver—along with hotel staff, airport porters and others who helped us along the way.

To make the gesture more personal, we brought along custom “thank you” cards we’d made on Walgreens.com. It allowed us to tuck the Moroccan dirhams into something a little more heartfelt that said, “You helped make this trip unforgettable for our family.”

It was also a small but meaningful way to model gratitude for our daughter. After all, the people who support our travels often shape the memories we take home—and Morocco gave us some of the best.

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Capture Kenya: A Magical African Safari Filled with Wildlife Wonder that Also Uplifts Women and Girls https://shebuystravel.com/capture-kenya-african-safari/ https://shebuystravel.com/capture-kenya-african-safari/#comments Fri, 25 Jul 2025 16:05:00 +0000 https://shebuystravel.com/?p=440617

We stood in our Capture Kenya Expeditions Land Cruiser, watching as the elephants advanced toward us. The group – called a “memory” – were graceful and elegant as they walked...

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We stood in our Capture Kenya Expeditions Land Cruiser, watching as the elephants advanced toward us. The group – called a “memory” – were graceful and elegant as they walked our way. Just as I started to wonder whether they planned to walk over us, the memory parted and elephants flowed around our vehicle on all sides, encompassing us within their herd.

It was just one of the magical moments we experienced on a bucket list safari in Kenya.

Capture Kenya Safari Highlights

  • Spotting a leopard in a tree with her prey.
  • Seeing thousands of elephants, giraffes, antelopes, gazelles, and Cape buffalo grazing across the savanna.
  • Staying in luxury “tents” at “camps” across Kenya.
  • A partnership with Uplift Travel Foundation that gives back and supports Maasai women and girls in Kenya.
  • The ability to customize the tour to our specific needs and wants.

Things You Need to Know

  • A safari in Africa is not for the faint of heart. Just getting to Africa can be grueling – for me, it was 24 hours of travel, including a 14-hour flight from New York City to Nairobi. In a middle seat. In economy. (If that will be you, read my survival tips for long flights before you board that plane!)
  •  Driving around Kenya is a challenge. Many of the roads are little more than a series of potholes held together by thin strips of asphalt. Plan ahead if you have motion sickness or back or neck issues.

Medjet Memberships Provide Peace of Mind

This section is sponsored by Medjet.

Capture Kenya includes medical evacuation insurance for every traveler to get them from the bush to a hospital in Kenya. But I wanted to be sure I could get to a hospital AT HOME should the need arise. Out of pocket, since insurance doesn’t always cover it, that air ambulance ride home could cost $250,000. So I bought a Medjet policy before I left home. My husband and I have more international travel planned later this year, so I bought the annual family plan that costs $425.

I like the Medjet plan because it:

  • Promises to bring my husband and me to our local hospital if we land in a hospital somewhere more than 150 miles from home
  • Will fly us home in an ICU-equipped aircraft, if needed, or a business class seat when intensive care isn’t required
  • Have the option to add 24/7 security and crisis response benefits, including response for things like political threats, violent crime, natural disasters and more. I may add that if we get nervous about our security during the times we are not with the safari company.

I hope we never have to use our membership. But I am comforted knowing that if I need it, it’s there.

Leopard looking directly into the camera
We even saw an elusive leopard, one of Africa’s Big Five animals, on one of our game drives. I like to think she was saying “hello” rather than “I want to have you for lunch.” Photo credit: Cindy Richards

Customized Safari

Capture Kenya is a small tour company that specializes in custom itineraries. Are you a bird watcher? Elephant lover? In need of quality time with some giraffes? Whatever your goal from your Kenya safari, owner Henry Gathura will create an itinerary that delivers.

Our safari was created in partnership with Uplift Travel Foundation. We saw all the animals we wanted to see – from the Big Five to the Ugly Five. And then we got the opportunity to spend some quality time with Maasai women who are on the front line of a cultural sea change in the country’s traditionally patriarchal society.

Man standing in a safari vehicle, waching a dazzle of zebras through binoculars.
The Land Cruiser’s pop-up top makes it easy to watch the wildlife, including this group of zebras, called a dazzle. Photo credit: Cindy Richards

Our Safari

There were 11 in our party – eight travel journalists and three guests. To ensure no one felt crowded, Henry set us up in three Toyota Land Cruisers outfitted for safari. He drove our vehicle while Stephen and Julius drove the other two.

Mornings started as early as 6:15am with the first of two daily game drives. The other happened at 4pm – both times set to find animals at their most active.

We were fortunate to see all of the Big Five, even the elusive leopard. One day brought a family of cheetahs and on another, a pride of lions munching on a Cape buffalo they had recently killed.

Capture Kenya tour guides pose by one of the company's vehicles.
Our fabulous Capture Kenya Expeditions tour guides, Julius, Stephen and Henry (left to right). Photo credit: Cindy Richards

The Right Guide Matters

Henry proved to be a master multitasker who can weave in and out of highway traffic, manage the washed-out national park roads and look for wildlife, all while coordinating with his two other drivers, Not only that, he gave us a wealth of education about the animals, culture and environment; taught us Swahili; and set up the best photo shoots.

Plus, he’s an animal whisperer who, after 23 years as a guide, instinctively knows whether that elephant walking toward us will veer around the truck or ram into it.

And then there’s the tour guide humor. It was on full display the day we encountered so many animals that we wanted to review the list. As he patiently ticked off their names and told us a bit about each of them, he came to the Yellow Banded Caterpillar. Where? We asked. Right there, he said, pointing to the yellow Caterpillar grader machine on the side of the road. Just as we got the joke he added, “It’s a male.”

A giraffe walks toward the sunset in Kenya
Magical scenes like this can happen every day on a safari in Kenya. Photo credit: Cindy Richards

So. Many. Animals.

Our custom safari covered more than 2,200 kilometers over 14 days. We communed with the elephants of Amboseli National Park, saw all of the Big Five (lions, leopards, elephants, rhinos and Cape buffalo) during a single two-hour game drive in Ol Pejeta Conservancy, learned about the Special Five in Samburu National Reserve and explored the vastness and wonder of the Maasai Mara.

As someone who grew up running from the room when my family watched those nature shows on PBS and a lion was about to kill its prey, I marveled at the fact that I couldn’t stop watching as a pride of lions ate the Cape buffalo they had just killed while its buffalo friends looked on in distress.

Each day, we climbed into our Land Cruiser and told Henry what we wanted to see that day. “A cheetah.” “A leopard.” “A memory of elephants.”

He only failed to deliver once. We asked to see a kill. To actually watch a lion or leopard take down its prey. We got very close one day. We watched for several minutes as two stealthy cheetahs stalked a dazzle of zebras. But we had reservations for breakfast with some hippos, so we had to leave before we learned who won – the cheetahs or the zebras.  

One of the glamping tents at Sweetwaters Serena Camp in Kenya
Our “tent” at Sweetwaters Serena Camp. Photo credit: Cindy Richards

Our Safari “Tents”

I fully expected my safari sleeping arrangements would be in actual tents. So I was very pleasantly surprised to find that “camp” and “tent” mean something very different in Africa.

From the Tamarind Tree Hotel, where we spent our first night in Nairobi to the Serena hotels, where we slept many nights to the Ashnil Surana Buffalo Springs outside Samburu National Park, our accommodations were uniformly cushy. Even the two nights we spent glamping at Sweetwaters Serena Camp outside Ol Pejeta Conservancy were in tents with indoor plumbing.

African schoolchildren in colorful native attire
These charming schoolchildren from the Mara Daima Academy sang and recited poetry for us when we visited the school, which is supported by Uplift Travel Foundation. Photo credit: Cindy Richards

Combining Game Drives with Cultural Immersion

Capture Kenya’s partnership with Uplift Travel makes it possible to do more than ogle animals. The foundation promises “custom itineraries that connect our visitors as travelers, not tourists, offering access to local friends, experts and projects that give back to culture and conservation needs.”

A minimum of 20 percent of the profits from any trip booked through Uplift Travel goes to sustainable projects that support and educate women and girls.

Among the projects we saw first-hand:

Schoolgirls in Kenya get Mad Pad kits
These schoolgirls, who often missed school when they got their period, show off the reusable Mad Pad feminine napkin kits we distributed during our visit. Photo credit: Cindy Richards

PadMad

This nonprofit makes and distributes reusable menstrual pads for $8 per kit. Many poor women cannot afford to buy pads each month, so they stay home from school or work for 4 or more days a month. That means the girls fall behind in school and the women lose their jobs.

We attended a training at the Olkimitare Comprehensive School in Aitong, where about 100 girls ages 9-15 giggled and looked embarrassed while a man talked to them about menstruation and a woman showed them how to use the washable pads.

The all-female Team Lioness rangers who protect Kenyan wildlife from poachers and angry villagers.
These young women rangers are Team Lioness, the most successful ranger unit protecting Kenyan wildlife from poachers and angry villagers. Photo credit: Cindy Richards

Team Lioness

This female-only ranger unit stands between Kenyan wildlife and the men who want to kill them. The most successful ranger unit operated by the International Fund for Animal Welfare, they patrol the areas outside Amboseli National Park to protect the wildlife, particularly the Big 5: lions, leopards, elephants, Cape buffalo and rhinoceros.

Those are the animals most likely to be targeted by poachers and by Masai villagers angry because one of the wild animals ventured into the village and killed one of the cows, goats or sheep.

These women step between the angry villagers and the animals, diffusing the situation and protecting the fast-disappearing species.

Maasai women who live in the Women's Village
These women are unique in Maasai culture – they own their own cows! Photo credit: Cindy Richards

Women’s Village

Founded by a Kenyan woman, Yianti Lerionka, as a refuge for Maasai women who have escaped early marriage or domestic violence or who have been widowed (and are not allowed to remarry in Maasai culture), the women’s village is home to the women and their children.

The women support themselves by making and selling the beautiful beaded jewelry that is a hallmark of Maasai fashion. Each month, they contribute $3 to a fund that is used to buy cows at a cost of about $200 per cow. It is all but unheard-of for Maasai women to own cows. That is the purview of men.  But these women now own 17 cows.

After a tough spring with limited income, the women could not afford a cow the month we visited. So we each chipped in $20 to buy them a cow.

A classroom in Kenya
A classroom at Mara Daima school. Photo credit: Cindy Richards

Mara Daima School

A generation ago, it was unlikely that Maasai kids would be in school. Maybe the boys, but rarely the girls. That is changing with schools such as Mara Daima. It has grown from just eight students when the school opened in 2019 to 179 now.

Uplift Travel has helped build new classrooms, dig a well and buy desks (at $11 each) for the schoolchildren.

Ready for Your Own African Safari Adventure?

Read more:

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Survival Tips for Long-Haul Flights in Economy Seats https://shebuystravel.com/survival-tips-for-long-flights-in-economy/ https://shebuystravel.com/survival-tips-for-long-flights-in-economy/#respond Mon, 23 Jun 2025 16:51:31 +0000 https://shebuystravel.com/?p=440782

I’ve traveled overseas in Business Class and Economy seats. Business Class is better. No doubt about that. But it’s also more expensive. Waaaay more expensive – my direct flight from...

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I’ve traveled overseas in Business Class and Economy seats. Business Class is better. No doubt about that. But it’s also more expensive. Waaaay more expensive – my direct flight from JFK to Nairobi cost $1200 round trip for Economy and more than $8400 for Business Class. So it was an easy decision for my daughter and me to book the cheap seats and steel ourselves for a grueling 14 hours on the way there and 15 hours on the way home.

Here are my tips for surviving a long-haul flight in economy, based on many, many hours doing just that on this flight and others.

Choosing the Right Airplane Seat for a Long Flight

lines of people at Kenya Airways check-in counter
Kenya Air’s app did not make it easy to move my seat to find a better spot on the plane. Photo credit: Tess Fisher

The key to real comfort in economy on a long flight is to get lucky enough to get three seats to yourself. Then you can simply put up those armrests and stretch out. No, it’s not a cushy lie-flat Business Class seat. But it’s the next best thing. I call it the poor folk’s lie-flat seat.

So how do you increase your chances of ending up in an empty row? You download the airline’s app and obsessively check the seating chart several times a day. I sometimes move my seat 10 times before I actually board, including while I’m waiting in line to get on the plane.

On my most recent flight – that 14-hour trip from JFK to Nairobi – this approach didn’t work at all. I was flying Kenya Air and the app was not updating. It turns out it didn’t matter. The plane was full. I was stuck in a middle seat for the duration. But I got lucky on the way back. As I was waiting to board, I checked the app, found an empty row and moved myself there just in the nick of time.

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Bulkhead Seats

These are good for the extra legroom. And they’re often left open until the last minute while the airlines wait to see if a family with an infant boards. The bulkhead seats are where they hang the baby bassinets.

But there are a couple of downsides to bulkhead seating:

  • You have to put all of your stuff in the overhead bin because there is no seat in front of you, hence, there is no underseat storage. So you’ll have to get up and down to access your stuff. And you need a lot of stuff on a long flight!
  • The armrests are usually stationary. So even if you happen to get the row to yourself, you won’t be able to move them so you can stretch out across the row.
  • The TVs pull out from the armrest. The movement can affect performance, so I think it increases the chance the TV won’t work. And you really need the TV to work when you have to kill 10+ hours of time. Plus, they have to be put away for landing, so you’ll have to turn off the movie early while everyone else gets to keep watching.

Aisle Seat vs. Window Seat

Woman takes a selfie to show she has 3 seats to herself in economy class on a long flight
The big win: a row to yourself in economy! Photo courtesy of Tess Fisher

There are benefits to both. An aisle seat gives you easier access to get up to use the bathroom. It also makes it easier to take a walk and stretch whenever you feel the urge.

But, if you plan to pop a sleep aid and conk out for most of the ride, a window seat is the answer. Your seat mates won’t need to wake you when they need to get up to use the lavatory or take a walk. Just remember to pull down that window shade when you take off so the sunrise doesn’t wake you.

Seat Choice Secret

If you’re traveling with someone, don’t choose seats next to one another!

Counter-intuitive, I know, but when I travel with my 6-foot 3-inch husband, I book him on the aisle and I take the window seat, leaving the middle seat open.

Best case scenario: No one chooses that undesirable seat and we get the extra space to ourselves. Worst case: The plane is full and someone ends up between us.

It’s usually easy to get that person to switch my window seat for their middle seat and hubby and I cozy up for the flight.

Exit Row

Airlplane wing against the blue sky
Photo credit: Shutterstock

See the bulkhead section above. Exit rows offer extra legroom, but the tradeoff is fixed armrests and seats that don’t recline. Plus, there are age restrictions on exit rows so unless you’re traveling with someone age 16 or older, you won’t be able to sit there together.

Should You Pay for Economy Plus?

It may seem like the right time to pay a (relatively) few extra bucks for that Economy Plus seat, but do your research first. An extra fee seat doesn’t necessarily mean extra leg room. On many flights, you’re just paying to sit closer to the front, which is great if you have a tight connection but you won’t get any extra legroom. Seats with actual extra legroom can cost $200 or more on a long-haul flight.

SheBuysTravel Tip: Check out SeatGuru to look at seat maps of the exact aircraft you’ll be flying before spending the money for an economy seat upgrade.

Long Haul Flights with Babies

When flying internationally, you will pay an infant fare for a baby. In very rare cases you may be able to get away with just paying taxes, but we recommend buying a seat. Having a lap child on a long flight is a LOT of work. Buy them a seat, research which carseat you can use on that plane and order a bassinet for the baby to sleep in. You’ll thank me later when you were actually able to sleep on the plane!

Timing is Everything

For a long-haul flight that lasts 10 hours or more, you’re going to switch from day to night or vice versa. For a shorter long-haul flight, consider booking the overnight (red-eye) flight to maximize your natural sleep cycle.

Tips for Sleeping on a Plane in an Economy Seat

tween sleeping on a plane across three seats
Best sleeping on a plane in economy strategy? Choose your seats strategically to increase the likelihood you’ll have an empty row so you can lie down. Photo credit: Nasreen Stump

Honestly, I don’t really sleep on planes. Too much activity. Too much noise. Too much light. Too many interruptions. Instead, I expect to stay awake the majority of the time, with a few small naps along the way. And I fly in a day early, book a hotel close to the airport with a free shuttle and head straight there the minute I clear customs. I fall into bed and sleep for 12 hours and wake up ready to go.

Here are some other options for getting a little shut-eye on the plane:

Upgrade to Business Class

Woman's legs showing off a seat in business class for a long flight
Scoring a cheap upgrade to business class is always the best way to survive a long flight. Photo credit: Cindy Richards

Yes, I know this isn’t a financially feasible solution for everyone. But a business class lie-flat seat is the bomb! On a recent flight home from Paris, Air France emailed me an offer I couldn’t refuse: A measly $400 to upgrade to business class. Heck, yes!

Use Sleep Aids

I tend to be pretty susceptible to drugs. When I need to sleep, I take Benedryl. Works like a charm for me. You may already have a sleep aid in mind. Options include sleeping pills such as Unisom, or a more natural choice such as melatonin (choose one with a 7-hour release to help you stay asleep).

Now, the kiddos. Should you give your kids an antihistamine like Benadryl to make them drowsy for the flight? First of all, don’t try this without discussing it with your doctor. Second, be aware that it actually makes some kids more hyper rather than sleepy. If your doc says it’s OK, give your kiddo a test dose before you fly to see how he responds.

SheBuysTravel Tip: Whatever sleep aid you want to use for you or your kids, test it BEFORE you fly. You want to know how your body will react to whatever you take.

Set Sleep Triggers

Nasreen Stump, a mom of four and frequent traveler, strongly believes in the power of suggestive thought and rituals. Her kids knew it was time to sleep when she handed them a specific nighttime stuffed animal, a special small blanket and a soothing spray of lavender mist on the pillow.

Sleep rituals work just as well for adults. It takes 21 days to form a habit. If you mist your face every evening at home with a lavender toner, over time you will associate it with sleep. Bring a travel-size when you fly and — boom — your body knows it’s bedtime.

Support Your Head on a Long Flight

If you’re in economy on a full flight, any sleep you get will be in the upright position. Consider buying a SeatSleeper. Yes, they look totally goofy. But they actually are comfortable and prevent head bounce. One of the main reasons people startle awake is because they’ve jerked their head around. These also work for long road trips. Feeling cheap? I once saw a businessman use his necktie in the same way on the headrest but I promise the actual product is less creepy.

Another effective but silly-looking option: Use an actual neck brace. It’s not as sexy as a neck pillow, but it will keep your head from flopping around. It’s what I use. I just wrap a scarf around it so it’s not quite so obvious.

What to Wear on a Long Flight

Comfort and layers are key here. No tight waistbands. No tight anything, really. In fact, I never even wear a bra on a long-haul flight – this is the time to break out a cammie. And the layers are important to manage air temps. Planes are always too hot or too cold. Layers mean you can take off or add as needed.

Wear comfy shoes that are easy to slip on and off. And bring a cheap pair of slippers with rubber soles to wear to the lav. Those floors can be pretty wet and gross after hours of use. You won’t want to walk there in your socks.

Compression socks are de riguer, no matter your age. Sitting with your legs hanging down for that many hours will lead to swelling in your legs, feet and ankles. The socks will help. And they come in so many cute styles these days!

SheBuysTravel Tip: Check out our list of the best travel pants for long flights. My personal favorite: The Athleta Retroplus Straight Leg Pants. They are just as cute as they are comfortable.

If you’re flying with littles, make sure the outfits are uncomplicated. There is no button struggle like a small airplane bathroom struggle with an “I need to pee NOW” toddler.

What to Pack in Your Personal Item for Long-Distance Flights

People gathered outside of Nairobi's airport
Welcome to Nairobi – finally! Photo credit: Tess Fisher

Water Bottle

It is super important to hydrate on long flights. Flight attendants will come around several times to offer those little cups of water. But you should drink more than a few little cup’s worth of water during the flight! Fill your water bottle often while waiting for the plane to take off and make sure everyone’s bottles are full before you board.

This one is my favorite because it fits in cup holders but also has a great clipping spot on the top so it can be clipped onto something and carried hands-free. If, like me, you’re traveling to or from someplace it is not safe to drink the water, splurge on a LifeStraw water bottle to keep yourself safe while you hydrate.

Face Mask

Especially during flu season, pack a few medical face masks. You’re going to be stuck in that metal tube with these folks for a few time zones. Wearing a mask is a good call if you’re seated next to a hacking Typhoid Mary when you can’t be moved.

Foot Hammock

preteen on long flight in airline seat watching seat back entertainment with headphones and foot hammock
Consider buying a foot hammock! It hooks over the tray table on the seat back in front of you and is perfect for short legs that don’t reach the floor. Photo Credit: Nasreen Stump

This was a recommendation from my friend, Nasreen, a true road warrior. She brings one because she’s short and if she reclines her seat, she can’t always touch the floor. That means her legs hang down, increasing the swelling in her feet and ankles.

I’m not short, but I do like to prop up my feet to give my legs a rest on a long flight. I bought this one before my 14-hour flight to Kenya. I was very happy to have it. I hung it from the seat back tray table and used it off and on throughout the flight.

Seatback Organizer

This might have been the single best thing I bought for my long flight. Being stuck in a middle seat meant it was really hard to even reach my underseat bag, much less have room to pull it out and search for the thing I needed. This seatback organizer fit over the tray table and came with pockets to stow the stuff I would need regularly – eye mask, ear plugs, charging cords, Kindle, phone, etc. As an added bonus, it covered the tray table so I didn’t need to worry about when it was last cleaned.

Comfort Items

Common recommendations are earplugs, eye sleep masks, travel pillows and blankets. You likely will get a pillow and blanket on the plane, but they will be of much lower quality than the products you would bring – especially those thin little blankets.

I always travel with this eye mask and this blanket (I’m usually cold on flights).

SheBuysTravel Tip: If you bring your own things, make sure they are washable – you’ll want to toss them in the washer the minute you get home to get rid of all of those plane germs. And don’t buy black – it just increases the chances you’ll leave it in a rental car trunk.

Noise-Canceling Headphones

Two women in airplane seats wearing headphones on a long flight
Nose-canceling headphones help keep the noise at bay. Photo credit: Tess Fisher

A good pair of noise canceling headphones can make for a much improved long-haul flight experience. There are also travel-friendly ones for babies and toddlers to help them sleep on the plane.

SheBuysTravel Tip: Many kiddos have ear pain on flights. We swear by EarPlanes and always pack them, along with a few lollipops. Sucking or chewing can also help ear popping. These motion sickness suckers can solve two problems at once.

Portable Power Pack and Charging Cords

Yes, the seatback likely will have a USB port and there may be a standard plug under your seat. But there is NO GUARANTEE either will work! I can’t tell you how many times I have been stymied by a lack of power on a long flight. So come prepared with a really good portable power bank. I never leave home without this one from Anker.

SheBuysTravel Tip: Don’t forget to pack all of your charging cords in your easily accessible carryon!

Glasses

Do you usually wear contacts? Not a good idea for long haul flights. Contact lenses draw moisture from your eyes and a 12+ hour flight is a long time to have them in your eyes. Even contact lens manufacturers recommend switching to glasses for long flights. It’s also great if your glasses have blue light protection since you’ll be staring at screens.

Toiletries

I packed the toiletries I wanted to be able to easily access in this organizer so all I had to do was pull it out of my bigger under-seat carry-on when I was ready to refresh at the end of the flight. Here’s what I packed inside:

Snacks

There will be meal service, but it may not come at the time when your stomach wants it. I refused a meal the airline wanted to serve me at 2am in favor of a nap, then woke up hungry four hours later. I always fly with healthy snacks – dried fruit and nuts.

White Noise Machine

I did not do this, but Nasreen swears by the power of this portable white noise machine. It includes a USB (plug into seat) or can run on battery power and has a headphone jack so you don’t irritate anyone else on board. Her kids use it too. She brings these toddler-friendly headphones and a 5-way audio splitter so her kids can all plug into the same sound machine.

Editor’s Note: This is an updated version of a post written by Nasreen Stump.

Read More:

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How to Spend 2 Days in Nairobi Before Your African Safari and Why You Should https://shebuystravel.com/2-days-in-nairobi/ https://shebuystravel.com/2-days-in-nairobi/#respond Mon, 16 Jun 2025 15:40:38 +0000 https://shebuystravel.com/?p=441538

Kenya’s a long way from my Atlanta home. I made some smart choices prepping for my first-ever safari, and learned a bunch more in this vast, beautiful, welcoming country. Each...

The post How to Spend 2 Days in Nairobi Before Your African Safari and Why You Should appeared first on She Buys Travel.

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Kenya’s a long way from my Atlanta home. I made some smart choices prepping for my first-ever safari, and learned a bunch more in this vast, beautiful, welcoming country.

Each tip can open space for deeper experiences and more relationships within communities.

Go Early

Birds, baboons, elephants, monkeys, leopards, bees and other animals of Africa are painted in many colors on a simple map the shape of Africa.
This fanciful map is a mural on a building in the Sheldrick Wildlife Trust in Nairobi, Kenya. Photo credit: Christine Tibbetts

Jet lag’s real and it’s a shame to let it crowd out the awe and wonder of first sights in new places.

The price of an early, extra hotel night – especially in Kenya where U.S. dollars and euros go far – is so worth it. I measured that in my own energy levels, but also comparing to travel companions who arrived just in time to head out again.

They struggled the first two days just to be acclimated to a new time zone, and to cope with disrupted sleep.

SheBuysTravel Tip: Book a hotel near the airport that offers free shuttle service to and fro. But if you’re flying out of JFK as we did, skip the Hampton Inn. Opt for one of the newer, nicer Marriott properties.

Go Smart

I thought I was clever, taking a short flight from Atlanta to New York, spending the night in an airport hotel and easing into the 14-hour Kenya Airways flight to Nairobi, departing JFK at 1:30 in the afternoon.

Think again. . . quite possible the body adjusts better with an eight-hour flight to, say Amsterdam, stretch a while and then another leg into Nairobi.

While considering those two options, think about returning home. For no discernible good reason, Kenya Airways demanded three security checks to get to the gate.

No water, no rest, shoes off and laptops out every time. And those were in addition to check-in and passport control.

Everybody getting on the plane for the midnight flight was dehydrated, peaked and grumpy. For some, including one pregnant woman who had gone without water in the overheated waiting area, it was downright dangerous.

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Get a Hotel

Three twin-size beds in a single room, with a wall of curtained windows and three pillows on each bed.
Guest rooms in the Tamarind Tree Hotel in Nairobi can accommodate three travelers easily with twin beds. Conventional double and queen beds available too. Photo credit: Christine Tibbetts

Tamarind Tree Hotel was the recommendation of my Capture Kenya safari company and I certainly had no reason to know otherwise.

Tamarind is 15 minutes from the Jomo Kenyatta International Airport and six kilometers from Nairobi National Park if you want to jumpstart viewing wild animals.

The incredibly kind and attentive staff were my first experience with Kenyan hospitality and generosity. Notice the welcome from every single soul; this will continue everywhere, every day.

My room had three twin beds, each with access to plug-ins for charging devices (although one took some sleuthing to find since it was behind the stack of pillows.

SheBuysTravel Tip: This whole story is “tips” but notice the Tamarind gift shop. Art in Kenya tends to repeat itself, so introduce yourself to intricate beaded earrings, necklaces and bracelets, to carvings of many animals, to soft fabrics with iconic African scenes and to ubiquitous T-shirts with images of the Big Five animals. Memorize them: lion, leopard, elephant, buffalo, rhino.

Grab Dinner

Bold primary colors of red and blue and yellow, with touches of green, outline imaginary animals in hotel paintings.
The Tamarind Tree Hotel in Nairobi features colorful lobby art suggestive of the animals to be seen on game drives throughout Kenya. Photo credit: Christine Tibbetts

Food’s lovely at the Tamarind – lavish breakfast buffet with tamarind juice to try! Patio seating by the pool and flowering trees and shrubs suited me best. Portions seemed enormous from lunch and dinner menus so consider sharing.

Get started on beetroot salad here; it’ll be on every menu the rest of the trip, always in a new design or shape.    

Get a Massage

Gentle hands-on healing or deep tissue massage: affordable and available in Kenya hotels.

There were three of us traveling together – one who likes a deep tissue massage; one who likes a gentle massage and me, who falls somewhere in the middle. All three of us agreed: Our massages at the Tamarind Tree Hotel with Evelyn (who also likes being called Eve) can be called the best ever.

Proof? My arthritis-swollen left knee returned to near normal size and my stiff neck and tight hips from that long flight eased considerably.

Given the exchange rate with US dollars, I spent $65 for 60 minutes of healing, and pure bliss.

Get Ready for the Elephants

Slender branches with small green leaves fill the ground in front of a baby elephant who picks one up with her trunk to lift to her mouth.
Rescued baby elephants learn to eat the leaves of tender branches as part of preparing to return to the wild. Photo credit: Christine Tibbetts

Visiting the Sheldrick Wildlife Trust in Nairobi definitely opens deeper feelings when encountering elephants on the game drives. Spend a few hours here before heading into Kenya’s vast national parks.

Baby elephants whose mamas have died are brought to Sheldrick and, with near-constant attention, they can successfully return to the wild in an astonishing five years! Tsavo is the name of Kenya’s national park where returns take place, if that’s something to consider experiencing.

Poaching is a subject much discussed in Africa, and so is the relationship with wild animals and village families trying to raise cows, goats and sheep—and gardens.

Conversations at Sheldrick with elephant protectors and nurturers gave me perspective to then take to the game drives and indigenous communities. Like “elephants know when someone has mistreated an animal in the past” or “elephants speak to one another in a frequency humans don’t hear.’

Without that teaching, I would have wondered about the deep silence on game drives watching families of elephants walking and munching.

SheBuysTravel Tip: Sheldrick offers adoption opportunities–$50 annually to support a baby elephant, complete with monthly newsletter updates. Rhinoceros adoptions also become available as safaris unfold. So do tuition payments and uniforms for children to go to school!

Feed a Giraffe

Smiling woman in khaki clothes and a grey baseball cap places tiny pellets on the extended tongue of a giraffe. Trees fill the background with a touch of blue sky, and a railing and waist-high fence separate them.
She Buys Travel Editor-in-Chief Cindy Richards feeds tiny pellets to a giraffe in Nairobi’s Giraffe Centre, an education facility emphasizing the endangered Rothschild species. Photo credit: Christine Tibbetts

Game drive giraffe encounters may be close enough to see their eyeballs, but mostly they’re about admiring those long lanky legs and graceful stride off in the distance.

Get close in Nairobi’s Giraffe Centre. Feel the long gentle tongue by feeding little pellets to the giraffe who wander close to the fenced boardwalk.

And learn a bit about the Rothschild, Maasai and Reticulated giraffe species found in Kenya.

AFEW is the organization behind this learning center—the African Fund for Endangered Wildlife.

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Not Your Average Tent: A Luxury Safari Stay in Kenya at the Surana Buffalo Springs https://shebuystravel.com/surana-luxury-hotel-review/ https://shebuystravel.com/surana-luxury-hotel-review/#comments Sun, 15 Jun 2025 19:18:38 +0000 https://shebuystravel.com/?p=440983

When I hear the word “tent,” I rarely think of rainfall showerheads, high-thread-count linens and a private plunge pool. But I found all of that and more at the Ashnil...

The post Not Your Average Tent: A Luxury Safari Stay in Kenya at the Surana Buffalo Springs appeared first on She Buys Travel.

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When I hear the word “tent,” I rarely think of rainfall showerheads, high-thread-count linens and a private plunge pool. But I found all of that and more at the Ashnil Surana Buffalo Springs “camp” in Kenya.

Highlights of Surana Buffalo Springs

  • Luxurious “tents” that are really individual pueblo-style buildings
  • Massage therapist named Molly Akinye
  • Swimming pool overlooking the river where the elephants visit daily
  • Three substantial meals per day included in the room rate
  • Optional daily game drives to see the “Special 5” found only in the surround Buffalo Springs National Reserve — reticulated giraffes, Beisa oryx, Grevy’s zebras, Somali ostrich and gerenuk – along with lions, impalas and more.

What You Need to Know

  • It will be hot and there is no air conditioning.
  • Be prepared if you have mobility challenges – it’s a long walk over an uneven path to get to your room, then stairs up to the porch.
  • The free wifi works pretty well in the reception area, but not so much in the rooms.

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Elephants at the confluence of the Ewaso and Isiolo rivers near the Surana Buffalo Springs hotel in Kenya.
We watched these elephants getting a drink at the confluence of the Ewaso and Isiolo rivers from our guest room at the Surana Buffalo Springs hotel in Kenya. Photo credit: Cindy Richards

Overall Impressions

As my friend, Christine, and I walked from our Capture Kenya Expeditions safari Land Cruiser into the open air reception area, we turned to one another and said, “This is so beautiful.”

And that was just our first look at the Surana Buffalo Springs and its natural surroundings. This serene, upscale resort overlooks the confluence of the Eweso and Isiolo rivers and has everything you would expect in a luxury resort – attentive service, lovely rooms, fine linens, exceptional spa services and gourmet dining. Then it adds a mesmerizing touch you’ll only find in Africa: Elephants lumbering up to the river twice a day for a drink of water and a bath.

Interestingly, the resort calls its accommodations “tents.” I would call them anything but. The individual pueblo-style buildings are plotted along the winding paths. They are nestled among the vegetation and set far enough apart to allow for skinny dipping in the private plunge pool while you listen to the elephants trumpet in the distance.

Who Should Stay at the Surana Buffalo Springs

  • Women traveling solo – the attentive staff keeps a watchful eye
  • Girlfriends – four of the 16 spacious tents have three twin beds and all can accommodate a rollaway
  • Couples or honeymooners seeking privacy – it’s easy to feel like you are the only people there thanks to the wide-spread “tents” and surrounding vegetation
One of 4 triple guest rooms at the Surana Buffalo Springs hotel in Kenya.
Our guest room had beds for three and plenty of room for a roll-away bed. Photo credit: Cindy Richards

Accommodations

The thoughtful design of the individual “tents” is everywhere, but nowhere more apparent that the placement of each unit. They are located to ensure maximum privacy. From our porch, we could hear other people – as well as the elephants trumpeting in the distance – but we could not see them.

Our guestroom had plenty of space for three twin beds – and room to add a fourth if need be. A separate area that was nearly as large housed the toilet room, a sink with a long shelf that easily accommodated two women’s toiletries and – the star of this show – a large rainfall shower with a view.

Our only complaint – and it was a minor one – is the relative lack of lighting. The resort is proud of its solar-powered environmental program. But, while the African-styled light fixtures were beautiful, they were ineffective. So don’t bring a paper book unless you also bring a book light. Or stick with a backlit Kindle.

Each unit has its own private plunge pool – the one family unit that can sleep up to six has two. We were overheated by the time we got into our room, so we immediately stripped and headed for the plunge pool on the patio. It was so cold that I never got all the way into the water. Just soaking my feet and wrists was enough to do the trick. I was cooled down immediately.

Private plunge pool outside a guest room at the Surana Buffalo Springs hotel in Kenya.
Our private plunge pool. Photo credit: Cindy Richards

Guestroom amenities

·         Private plunge pool

·         Premium toiletries – body wash, hand wash, shampoo and conditioner

·         A high-powered flashlight to light up the dim pathway from the room to the dining/reception area

·         Electric kettle, tea bags and instant coffee

·         Minifridge stocked with sodas, beer, wine and liquor for a charge

·         Safe

·         Ceiling fan over the beds

The open air lobby and restaurant area of the Surana Buffalo Springs hotels in Kenya
The three meals daily (included in the room rate) are served in the open-air lobby. Photo credit: Cindy Richards

Dining

Three gourmet meals and two snacks each day are included in the room rate, although drinks, including bottled water, are an additional charge.

Overall, the food was good – not great — and the portions quite large. Both Christine and I were surprised to be offered hot soup on days when the temperatures easily hit triple digits. A cold gazpacho or fruit soup seemed like it would have been a better choice.

The best meals we had were the fish options flown in from the coast.

SheBuysTravel Tip: Skip the bread and butter. We generally found it to be a little dry and flavorless and the butter was often melted in the heat. Save those calories for the rest of the meal.

Chefs preparing the made-to-order breakfast at the Surana Buffalo Springs hotel in Kenya.
Breakfast time! Photo credit: Cindy Richards

Breakfast

Two chefs offer cooked-to-order eggs. The buffet included a variety of breads and pastries, fried potatoes, mixed veggies and “porridge” along with a selection of fresh fruits and fruit juices. Breakfast is served daily from 6:30-9:30 to accommodate the early morning game drives.

Beef with chimichurri topped with a poached egg and serve with sweet potato fries and wilted spinach -- a lunh option at the Surana Buffalo Springs hotel in Kenya
Beef with chimichurri topped with a poached egg and serve with sweet potato fries and wilted spinach – a substantial lunch option! Photo credit: Cindy Richards

Lunch

This was a heavy five-course meal – a starter, salad, soup, entrée and dessert. Each day brought one choice of starter, salad and soup – order it or don’t; 5 or 6 choices of entrees, ranging from pasta to beef to vegetarian options; and two choices of dessert – fresh fruit or something yummy and bad for you.

A typical menu offered a salad of tomato, eggplant, and feta cheese with yogurt dressing, a starter of spring roles with tomato chutney and cream of butternut soup. Main course choices were:

·         Penne pasta with chicken, mushroom and bacon in a creamy white sauce

·         Beef with chimichurri topped with a poached egg and serve with sweet potato fries and wilted spinach

·         Grilled tuna in basil and lemon topped with mango salsa served with carrots and shoe string fires

·         Spinach and feat lasagna served with garlic bread and a side salad

·         Matar paneer served with rice, chapatti and pickles

·         Grilled cauliflower steak with chimichurri served with Romesco sauce and black lentils

From this menu, the grilled tuna steak was particularly yummy.

Lunch is served from 12:30-2:30.

Dinner

Another heavy meal with five courses, served from 7:30-9:30 to give people time to return from their afternoon game drives. While some guests seemed to have showered and dressed for dinner, we opted to “come as you are” and wore our slightly dusty game drive clothes to dinner. No one seemed to mind.

Inifinity pool at the Surana Buffalo Springs hotel in Kenya
Pool with a view of the confluence of the Ewaso and Isiolo rivers. Photo credit: Cindy Richards

Amenities

On the property is an infinity swimming pool (the water was almost as chilly as our plunge pool) with a front-row view of the elephants at the river. But the biggest resort amenity is the surrounding Buffalo Springs National Reserve.

Our safari included twice-daily game drives to see the graceful giraffes, majestic elephants, speedy impalas, unique oryx and more. If you aren’t on a safari tour, you can book a game drive through the resort.

Massage therapist in the spa at Surana Buffalo Springs hotel in Kenya
Don’t miss the chance to get a massage from Molly Akinye at the Surana Buffalo Springs spa. Photo credit: Cindy Richards

The Spa

Calling this a spa might be a bit of a stretch, but it is a not-to-be-missed amenity. The location alone is worth it.

I booked a one-hour massage for the unheard-of resort price of just $45 USD. Molly Akinye, the remarkably talented massage therapist, was still working on a previous client so I decided to check out the “forest shower.” That’s the shower and toilet embedded into the side of the hill with a strategically placed tree offering a modicum of privacy. Aside from that one tree, I had an expansive view of the river while I showered. Then, because there is no waiting room, I closed the toilet seat and sat there wrapped in a towel watching the river while I waited my turn on the massage table.

The spa, which was really just Molly when we visited in late May 2025, offers foot reflexology and body treatments along with massage.

SheBuysTravel Tip: There are two massage tables, so a couple’s massage is possible. Book that in advance so Molly can call in a second therapist.

The open air toilet and shower at the Surana Buffalo Springs hotel spa.
Toilet and shower with a view. Photo credit: Cindy Richards

Safety Features

This resort is secluded, so I never felt any fear that a stranger might arrive and threaten us. We didn’t even bother locking our door when we headed out. And a member of the attentive staff was always ready to walk us back along the dimly-lit path after dinner.

The real thing to fear here is nature. The monkeys and baboons might be tempted to come if they smell food. The scorpions and snakes are huge and dangerous. The flies buzz everywhere. The mosquitoes carry disease. And the equatorial sun is intense.

So wear your sunscreen, use your bug spray and cover up as much as possible to protect yourself.

An octogon "tent" at Samburu Isiolo, a sister Ashnil resort near Surana Buffalo Springs in Kenya.
The octagon “tents” at Samburu Isiolo, a sister Ashnil resort. Photo credit: Cindy Richards

A Sister Resort

There are two Ashnil “tent camps” in Samburu. The other, Samburu Isiolo, is no more a tent than Surana. These guestrooms, however, look more like yurts – an octagonal structure that is stone on the back and canvas and screens on the front that faces the retaining wall built to hold back the river during flood season.

Unlike the Surana, which is hot and exposed to the blazing sun, Samburu Isiolo is hacked out of the forest along the river. So the trees provide constant shade and the river supplies a constant breeze. If you prefer a cooler stay, choose these Ashnil tents instead.

Getting There

We arrived as part of our Capture Kenya Expedition safari tour. But it’s possible to get there on your own. Take a 45-minute flight from Nairobi to Buffalo Springs, then drive 25 minutes to the camp. Or you can rent a car and drive the 310 km from Nairobi over a highway that is nearly new and in great shape for Africa where most of the roads we traveled were little more than a series of potholes strung together by strips on asphalt.

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Packing List for an African Safari in Kenya https://shebuystravel.com/safari-packing-list/ https://shebuystravel.com/safari-packing-list/#respond Sun, 15 Jun 2025 19:13:52 +0000 https://shebuystravel.com/?p=440625

I rarely obsess about what to pack for a trip. That is partly because I travel frequently enough that I don’t often fully unpack – I just refill the toiletries...

The post Packing List for an African Safari in Kenya appeared first on She Buys Travel.

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I rarely obsess about what to pack for a trip. That is partly because I travel frequently enough that I don’t often fully unpack – I just refill the toiletries and leave them, along with my power adapter, rain coat, travel mirror and a few other things, in my favorite suitcase.

But the prospect of packing for a bucket list safari in Africa left me entirely verklempt. Here’s what I packed, what I wish I hadn’t, what I wish I had and a few tips for doing the whole thing better the next time.

What I Packed and Why

Normally, I am Team Carry-on. But I simply could not fit everything I thought I would need in one carry-on and small personal item. So the first thing you need is a larger suitcase like this one from Ricardo.

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Photo credit: Pixabay

Clothes for an African Safari

The note from our trip organizer offered this packing advice:

“Don’t wear red. It makes the lions mad. And don’t wear blue. It attracts the Tsetse flies.”

That posed a particular challenge for my brightly colored wardrobe. I needed some beige in my life. And I wanted quick-dry clothes that could be washed in the sink and hung up to dry overnight. Shirts with built-in sun protection offered bonus points.

Here are my favorite options:

Seamaid Women’s Quick Dry Pants

keriffe Women’s Cargo Pants

Pioneer Camp Women’s UV Sun Protection Shirt

MAGCOMSEN Women’s Short Sleeve Sun Protection Shirts

Sun protection, from sunscreen to sunglasses to sun hats, is critical if you’re visiting equatorial Kenya, even at its southern border with Tanzania. Photo credit: Cindy Richards
Sun protection, from sunscreen to sunglasses to sun hats, is critical if you’re visiting equatorial Kenya, even at its southern border with Tanzania. Photo credit: Cindy Richards

Other Things to Bring Along

A great sunhat is a must to give you some respite from the equatorial sun. And get one that ties below your chin. It might not be sexy, but it’s certainly practical when the winds blow across the savanna. If you get too hot wearing a hat, bring a sun visor.

Sturdy hiking shoes or boots aren’t critical unless you happen to be visiting when it rains, as I did. The mud, standing water and slippery stones made me happy to have my sturdy shoes. Others did just fine with their tennis shoes.

A puffy jacket that squishes down to pack easily is important for the early morning and late afternoon game drives when the air can be chilly.

I also picked up a safari vest. All of those pockets came in handy when I needed quick, easy access to my binoculars, sunscreen, bug spray or lip balm.

A group of safari travelers at dinner.
Our group didn’t dress for dinner. Photo credit: Cindy Richards

Do I Need Fancy Clothes?

Clearly, this is personal preference. Some of our fellow safari goers would return from the 4pm game drive and head back to their rooms to shower and dress for dinner. My group chose to wash our hands and head to the bar for a pre-dinner drink.

That meant the two skirts, tops and shoes I packed for evening wear were a waste of precious space in my suitcase.

Woman posing in a safari truck with a giraffe in the background.
Pack binoculars – the animals aren’t always willing to get this close to the safari trucks. Photo credit: Deb Thompson

Must-Have Safari Extras

Day pack. I used my personal carryon bag, but others opted for backpacks. Whatever works before for you to carry the things you’ll need during game drives.

Binoculars. The animals aren’t always courteous enough to hang out close to the road. Having a pair of binoculars meant we were able to see the elusive cheetahs and leopards in Kenya. I took these binoculars, which are compact and lightweight. If you want to be able to photograph what you see in the binoculars, try these, but note that they weigh more than two pounds.

Sunscreen. Bring the highest SPF you can and carry the bottle with you whenever you’re out and about so you can reapply regularly. I even did this on days we spent driving from one location to the next. The Toyota Land Cruisers we used on our Capture Kenya safari did not have air conditioning, so we drove with the windows open to let the air – and sun – stream in. This Neutrogena 70 SPF sunscreen comes in a TSA-friendly three ounces.

Bug spray. While it’s tempting to stick with natural products, this is the time for DEET. Bugs in Africa are serious business and carry serious disease. Don’t risk it. I bought this six-pack of TSA-friendly one-ounce Repel bug spray with DEET.

Hand wipes. We kept a pack in the Land Cruiser. It was nice after a particularly dusty drive to pull out the wipes and clean our hands and faces.

Face mask. See above, re: dusty drives. I kept my Covid mask close by so I could reach it easily any time a dust cloud blew up or we passed a particularly smelly truck belching black exhaust fumes.

Water bottle with a built-in Life Straw. My safari tour company gave each of us insulated refillable water bottles and our tour guides regularly filled them with bottled water they kept chilled in the coolers. If you won’t have that, buy one of these. You don’t want to risk getting sick on this bucket list trip!

Tide soap single packets. I used these TSA-friendly packets to wash out underwear, socks, pants and tops in the hotel room sinks. They easily dried overnight in the hot dry air.

Anti-Diarrheal. Fortunately, I didn’t need these, but others in our group did. Bring them with you – you won’t likely be close to a supermarket or drug store.

Malaria pills. These are a must. You’ll get them from your doctor and should start taking them before your trip, every day at breakfast through the safari and for several days after you get home.

Power adapter. Mine died on my last trip, so I bought this one. It worked fine. And I brought it with me every day to keep my phone charged up in the safari vehicle. Ask your safari tour company if the vehicles are equipped with power. If not, bring a portable power pack. It always surprises me how quickly my phone drains battery power when I’m taking so many photos and videos!

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Serena Hotels: Where to Stay on Your Kenyan Safari https://shebuystravel.com/serena-hotel-roundup/ https://shebuystravel.com/serena-hotel-roundup/#respond Sun, 15 Jun 2025 19:08:25 +0000 https://shebuystravel.com/?p=440905

Every giraffe is stately, every baby elephant adorable and the leopards and cheetahs are elusive in Kenya. Overnight accommodations for people on safari, however, vary widely. I stayed in luxury...

The post Serena Hotels: Where to Stay on Your Kenyan Safari appeared first on She Buys Travel.

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Every giraffe is stately, every baby elephant adorable and the leopards and cheetahs are elusive in Kenya.

Overnight accommodations for people on safari, however, vary widely.

I stayed in luxury in resorts that call themselves camps or safari lodges and also in a city hotel, all operating under the banner of the Serena Hotels chain as part of my trekking. Their art, architecture and personality emerge as distinctively different as the wild animals are from one another.

Seems how we sleep, eat and relax between game drives is filled with wonder just like the sightings of an impala or lion or zebra.

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Simple wooden sign with three horizontal boards declaring Sweetwaters Serena Camp at Latitude 00 degrees 00 feet at the Equator.
All the Serena camps and lodges post location signs at the roundabouts in arrival areas. Being on the equator feels particularly striking. Photo credit: Christine Tibbetts

What to Expect at Serena Properties

  • Spa Services are superb, described in “best ever anywhere” terms by my traveling colleagues, and me. The challenge is finding time for appointments because game drives can start early and go late.
  • Meals at Serena properties are mostly buffets with international choices including Asian and Indian. Expect luscious fresh fruits and juices, eggs and pasta cooked to specifications, and multiple bite-sized desserts.The iconic Kenyan staple named ugali, made of maize or flour, and water or milk, and intended more to sustain than delight, pays homage on many buffet spreads to indigenous history.
  • Wi-fi is included, but sometimes spotty. Once registered, always registered, re-upping automatically as entering another Serena property. iPhone and AT&T service sometimes failed to reopen but the front desk staff always knew a way to overcome that glitch.
  • Gift shops deserve attention, whether shopping or not, because they’re cultural lessons. Each of the five I visited presented a slightly different vibe. Already knowing the textiles, jewelry, carvings and images of Kenya is immensely helpful when encountering very insistent street vendors.
  • Most accommodations are much more than tents. Even the ones that are canvas outside come with floors, walls, flush toilets and hot showers.
  • In Kenya there are seven Serena properties, with eight in neighboring Tanzania and one in Uganda. The owner is a Swiss entity named the Aga Khan Fund for Economic Development, with 35 properties including in Asia.

SheBuysTravel Tip: Discuss your budget with your safari guide company way in advance because options abound. Capture Kenya Expeditions and Uplift Travel Foundation knew what my group of 11 had in mind and they chose accordingly.

Serena Hotel Choices

Here’s a look at my experiences, some only one night, sometimes lasting two. Copious amounts of mosquito netting engulfed beds in the camps and lodges.

Gauzy mosquito netting surrounds a bed completely, wrapping around and above the four posters. Daylight shines through in a room with a lake view.
Mosquito netting seen from the inside out is important to consider before heading out on safari. It really feels like an enclosure, and finding the separation panels for bathroom calls can incite a bit of panic. Photo credit: Christine Tibbetts

Amboseli Serena Safari Lodge

Reddish-pink building with rounded top and smooth walls is flanked with sharp pointed long sticks above head-level. The lodging huts are surrounded with lush trees and gardens/
Amboseli buildings reflect Maasai village architecture, something which becomes clearer as a Kenya safari unfolds. The pointed sticks at ceiling level reflect cattle pens in the center of traditional Maasai villages. Photo credit: Christine Tibbetts

This is the place to say “I’ve seen Mount Kilimanjaro.” Look toward Tanzania and hope the clouds separate. Didn’t happen for me.

Amboseli is the park known clearly for its abundance of elephants so if seeing these majestic creatures is your No. 1 safari goal, make the drive southeast of Nairobi.

On Kenya highways, those 200 or so miles can be a “catch-your-breath” experience as Kenyan drivers pass industrial trucks and regularly turn the two lanes into four, with motorbikes veering on the shoulders.

Amboseli Serena Safari Lodge has 92 rooms and one suite. The swimming pool is heated, worth noting because some of the other hotel pools offer only icy cold water.

A short wooden bridge crosses through a lush garden to enter the dining room. The maitre d’ or wine steward is dressed in traditional Massai shuka—-a blanket-type cloth fastened over his shoulders.

Dark wood walkway with split-rail support beams opens to a glimpse of the reddish-pink smooth-walled lodging buildingsand to dense forest and garden with green bushes amidst big boulders.
The wooden walkway into the Amboseli Serena Safari Lodge dining room crosses a lush garden, looking toward the larger vista of the game park. Photo credit: Christine Tibbetts

Sweetwaters Serena Camp

Sometimes lodging called a tent actually looks like one…. but the ensuite bathroom with all the amenities surely is more comfortable than what I knew as a Girl Scout.

Sweetwaters Serena Camp – with 56 tents – sits right on the equator. Book one overlooking the water because Cape buffalo stop by to drink, and so do lots of zebra (which in a group are called a dazzle).

Walking between tents, and to the dining room, is possible on a stone sidewalk, where friendly Kenya staff always offer greetings and birds with feathers of spectacular colors flit around.  Walking in the grass on the water side opens more animal viewing options.

Khaki-yellow tent roof and flaps open to double bed with crisp white sheet. Pillows and coverlet are stripes and diamond shapes in turquoise, red and purple. The sink and mirror are visible with the toilet and shower off to each side. A roof of thatch and sticks covers the tent canvas and extends to the sides.
Sweetwaters Serena Camp offers double or twin beds in a tent with a floor, back porch with a view, hot water shower, flush toilet, sink with ample counter space and all the amenity products. Flaps on both sides open to screened windows for cross breezes. Photo credit: Christine Tibbetts

SheBuysTravel Tip: This camp of 50 acres is within the 110,000-acre Ol Pejeta Conservancy where there are enough special activities beyond the always-wonderful game drives to stay fascinated a week or more. Most are $70 per person – but where else would travelers meet the last two northern white rhinos in the world, and learn about multi-national in vitro efforts to hope to birth more?

Clouds dot the blue-gray sky and slender green trees stretch taller than the thatch roofs covering spacious lodging tents. Two canvas folding chairs and a small table fill the back porch.
All-natural is the mood at Sweetwaters Serena Camp where the roof covering lodging tents allows window opening even in rainy season. Photo credit: Christine Tibbetts

Lake Elmenteita Serena Camp

When the lake on the lush green property where you just checked in for the night has a moat separating the back lawn from the water, assume those boulders are hippos.

Individual lodging buildings, staggered for privacy, and each with a covered back porch, included a four-page birds checklist. That seemed like a safer endeavor than lake wading with hippos.

Whispy branches of tall slender trees filter blue sky above a lake. Tall grasses and short shrubs fill the land at the water's edge and a stretch of brown dirt suggests a moat.
The view from the dining room–an open air patio facing an expansive lawn–at Lake Elmenteita Serena Camp leads to a moat not to be crossed. Photo credit: Christine Tibbetts

Lake Elmenteita Serena Camp offers lots of activities, including yoga, watercolor painting, Swahili language classes and tours of the botanic gardens in the camp. Most are included in the nightly rate, which makes this a big draw for Kenyan families looking for a mini-vacation from nearby Nairobi.

The sleeping room included a chaise lounge, a writing desk and an after-dark shock – hot water bottle under the covers. Someone’s idea of humor: the snuggly container was plain white on one side and filled with the image of a bug on the other.

There are 24 tents, as the structures are called, and one suite.

Gauzy mosquito netting is pulled up around bed posts in the day and lush green gardens show through floor-to-ceiling windows. Two double beds are covered with khaki-colored comforters and pillows.
Everything’s all about the view at Lake Elmenteita Serena Camp; beds face the patio and deep gardens with a narrow mowed path toward the lake. Photo credit: Christine Tibbetts

Mara Serena Safari Lodge

Looking toward Tanzania and the fabled Serengeti – into which the Mara Triangle would fit eight times – helped me understand that the Great Migration does not include all the wild animals I’d come on safari to see.

It’s about the wildebeests, and some zebra and gazelles. And I saw them throughout my days in Kenya.

The lodge putting me in touch with the Serengeti houses people in side-by-side rounded buildings with fanciful yellow circles like bullseye’s around the windows. There are 74 rooms and suites.

The main reception building intends to showcase the vast plains with a two-story floor-to-ceiling glass wall. Walkways to the individual rooms are sloped and some places include steps, a bit hard to see at night.

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The little sitting area beyond the beds in the Mara Serena Safari Lodge opens to a small patio. Baboons like to visit so keeping the exterior door closed is strongly advised. Photo credit: Christine Tibbetts
Cloudless blue sky covers vast yellow plains with streaks of green. In the foreground are dense green shrubs on a hillside, two skinny trees with no branches except at the very top. The side wall and rounded roof of a large smooth brown building show at the far right.
Vast is the feeling in the Mara Triangle and that’s available at the Mara Serena Safari Lodge. This is the view from the main reception building. Photo credit: Christine Tibbetts

Nairobi Serena Hotel

Returning to the city and its madcap traffic can feel disorienting after some nights in game drive parks – but Kenya’s vast and breaking up the drive in urban luxury is practical.

The doorman’s outfit evokes colonial era British fashion, and the African textile art displays on guest room floors honor traditional skills very much practiced today.

Works from 20 African cultures are included, so allow time in the corridors! Weaving, dying, basketry, photography, combs and carved calabashes are among the treasures.

SheBuysTravel Tip: Connect hotel art to cocktail hour discoveries throughout the country. Dawa is the name of a beloved Kenyan cocktail made of vodka, honey, ginger and lime – and many places serve it in a carved calabash. 

Expect seated dinner service instead of the game park buffets, and cocktail lounges with sculpture and quiet corners for conversation.

A large fabric square with three birds in a horizontal line and three people above them is bordered by beige triangles on dark brown fabric.
Among the many works on the African Textile Tour in the Nairobi Serena Hotel is this one, named Korhogo from the Ivory Coast: hand printed on hand-woven cotton strips. Photo credit: Christine Tibbetts

The Nairobi Serena with its five-star rating and location near the city’s Central Park district is also a starting point for an unlikely discovery—the personality of mud structures throughout Kenya.

Credit the hotel’s textile tour with the tip about African Heritage House, which can be visited by appointment near the Nairobi National Park. Villages filled with homes made of mud and dung will have even more meaning as safari drives leave the city and wind through Kenyan countrysides.

Bold yellow sofa cushions are framed by a large window overlooking dense greenery in a hotel courtyard. Side chairs of the same yellow and also deep orange sit on either side of a round wooden table.
Elegant settings distinguish the Nairobi Serena Hotel. Photo credit: Christine Tibbetts

Getting There

Some safari travelers fly short hops from Nairobi to local landing strips and rely on lodging properties for transport and game drives. Intrepid people actually drive themselves but routes are long and rutted and in the game parks, every which way looks the same to first-timers.

My group of 11 booked a custom designed experience through Capture Kenya Expeditions with airport arrival pickup in Nairobi and door-to-door care everywhere.

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The 5 ‘Fives’ of Africa – the Big, Ugly, Feathered, Special and Small Animals You’ll See in Kenya https://shebuystravel.com/animals-to-see-in-africa/ https://shebuystravel.com/animals-to-see-in-africa/#respond Wed, 11 Jun 2025 20:13:00 +0000 https://shebuystravel.com/?p=441099

Heading off on safari in Kenya means going in search of the majestic Big Five –  legendary lions, leopards, elephants, rhinos, and the formidable Cape buffalo. But, as I learned on...

The post The 5 ‘Fives’ of Africa – the Big, Ugly, Feathered, Special and Small Animals You’ll See in Kenya appeared first on She Buys Travel.

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Heading off on safari in Kenya means going in search of the majestic Big Five –  legendary lions, leopards, elephants, rhinos, and the formidable Cape buffalo. But, as I learned on my safari, you don’t want to stop there. It’s also possible to discover the surprising charm of the Ugly Five, admire the vibrant hues of the Feathered Five, seek the unique residents of the Samburu Special Five and marvel at the tiny wonders of the Small Five.

Here’s a brief overview of all of the fabulous Fives you can find on a safari in Kenya.

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This beauty kept a close eye on the tourists. Photo credit: Christine Tibbetts

The Big Five: Legends with a Not-So-Glamorous Origin Story

You likely thought that this iconic squad – the lion, African elephant, Cape buffalo, leopard, and rhinoceros – got their fearsome reputation from being awesome. Not true. It came from their interactions with big game hunters. Lions and leopards were felled for their valuable pelts, elephants for their tusks and rhinos for their horns. The Cape Buffalo were killed because they’re mean and the hunters didn’t want to chance an encounter with an angry buffalo.

Some Big Five fun facts:

Lions

Built for power and majesty, lions are fearsome but sleepy, spending as much as 20 hours a day napping. Their spine-tingling roar can be heard 8 km (5 miles) away. A group is called a pride. But you knew that, right?

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An African elephant mama and baby. Photo credit: Cindy Richards

African Elephant

The largest land animal on Earth, these gentle giants are super smart and incredibly social. They get their name from their ears, which are shaped like the continent of Africa. These matriarchal groups are called a memory. Or, when they walk single file across the savanna, a parade.

A lone male Cape buffalo wakling through the savanna in Kenya.
This crabby old dude was kicked out of his herd and is spending his final days wandering alone across the savanna. Here, he sports an earring made from grass. Photo credit: Cindy Richards

Cape Buffalo

Considered the meanest animal on the savanna. They travel in huge herds and take care of their own – until the males get old and cranky. Then they get kicked out of the group and are condemned to wander alone for the rest of their days.

Leopard looking directly into the camera
She and I made eye contact. Photo credit: Cindy Richards

Leopard

This spotted stunner is famously elusive. We saw two on our safari, which made my Nairobi friends very jealous. “We’ve never seen a leopard,” they moaned. Leopards are strong climbers and will drag their dinner (even large kills!) up into trees so there’s no worry they might have to fight off another hungry predator.

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Rhinos are critically endangered thanks to poachers who kill them for their horns, which are believed to be a powerful aphrodisiac. This is one of only two Northern White Rhinos left in the world. Photo credit: Cindy Richards

Rhinoceros

These huge animals are critically endangered thanks to poachers who kill them for their horns which are believed to be a powerful aphrodisiac. We saw Black Rhinos, Southern White Rhinos and the last two living Northern White Rhinos – and learned about a multi-country effort to save the species with in vitro fertilization. It’s hard to believe, but these giants are herbivores who eat grass and leaves. They have a strong sense of smell, but very poor eyesight.

Several safari vehicles lined up watching an elephant walk across the savanna in Kenya
A typical safari traffic jam when someone spots an animal. Photo credit: Cindy Richards

The Ugly Five: Beauty is in the Eye of the Game Driver!

Not every animal can be a supermodel. These guys – the hyena, warthog, wildebeest, marabou stork, and vulture – might not win a beauty contest, but they are essential members of the African ecosystem.

Hyenia in the grass of the savanna in Kenya
Hyenas are mostly nocturnal animals, but you can sometimes spot them during the day. Photo credit: Kim Schneider

Hyena

These carnivores, who live in clans led by a female, are known for their powerful jaws and famous “laugh.” They are thought of as scavengers, but they are also incredible hunters. (Skip this next part if you have a weak stomach.) They start eating while their prey is still alive. Ick.

A menacing looking warthog in Kenya
Warthogs are so ugly that they’re cute. Sort of. Photo credit: Kim Schneider

Warthog

Say hello to Pumba! A fan favorite from Disney’s “The Lion King” movie, warthogs have tough, bristly hair, impressive tusks and funny “warts” on their faces. They’re known for kneeling on their front legs to graze, and when they dart off, their tails shoot straight up in the air like little antennae.

Wildebeest walking in Mara National Park in Kenya
Funny-looking wildebeest looks like he was designed by committee. Photo credit: Cindy Richards

Wildebeest

The stars of the Great Migration when more than a million wildebeests migrate from the Serengeti in Tanzania to the Mara in Kenya and back, these animals look like they were designed by a committee. They have the head and humped back of a buffalo, the stripes of a zebra, the tail of a horse. A favorite meal for lions, hyenas and crocodiles, wildebeest survive through synchronized birthing. They drop hundreds of thousands of calves around the same time each year to overwhelm predators and help more babies survive.

Marabou Stork
Marabou Stork. Photo credit: Charles J. Sharp, Sharp Photography via Wikimedia

Marabou Stork

With its bald, pink head, massive bill, and dangling throat pouch, this huge bird is no prize. But they are Africa’s ultimate scavenger, gobbling up carrion and trash.  

A tree full of vulutres with their wings spread
A tree full of vultures. Photo credit: Kim Schneider

Vulture

Another vital member of Africa’s clean-up crew, vultures are instantly recognizable by their bald heads and hooked beaks. While their dining habits might seem a bit gross, these birds help prevent disease by making quick work of carcasses. Sadly, many vulture species are in serious trouble, mainly due to poisoning.

Capture Kenya Expeditions truck with the top up and guests looking for animals in Kenya
One of our Capture Kenya Expeditions vehicles on the lookout for the Feathered Five. Photo credit: Cindy Richards

The Feathered Five: Kenya’s Avian Superstars

Kenya is a birdwatcher’s paradise, boasting more than 1,000 species of birds. The members of the Feathered Five steal the show.

The Lilac-Breasted Roller, the most beautiful bird in Africa, is the national bird of Kenya.
The iridescent Lilac-Breasted Roller is the most beautiful of the 1,000+ birds in Kenya. Photo credit: Cindy Richards

Lilac-Breasted Roller

The national bird of Kenya, the roller is breathtakingly beautiful. Its iridescent plumage is a kaleidoscope of blues, greens, lilacs, and pinks.

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Hamerkop. Photo credit: Voidoffrogs via Wikimedia

Hamerkop

Meaning “hammerhead” in Afrikaans, this medium-sized water bird is instantly recognizable by its distinct hammer-like head shape and crest. You’ll often find them hanging out near water.

African wattled lapwing bird found in Kenya
African Wattled Lapwing. Photo credit: Charles J. Sharp, Sharp Photography, via Wikimedia

African Wattled Lapwing

This striking ground bird sports prominent red and yellow wattles dangling from its face, giving it a truly distinctive and colorful look. You’ll often find them in open grasslands where they lay their eggs in scapes in the ground and vigorously protect the eggs from predators.

Southern Ground Hornbill flying in Africa
Southern Ground Hornbill. Photo credit: Derek Keats from Johannesburg, South Africa, via Wikimedia

Southern Ground Hornbill

This magnificent and imposing bird is one of Africa’s biggest. With its sleek black feathers, vibrant red face, and helmet-like growth on its beak (a casque), it’s impossible to miss in the savanna. These highly social birds live in groups; only the lead pair breeds, while the rest of the crew helps raise the young.

Common ostrick walking through tall grass in Kenya.
Common ostrich. Photo credit: Cindy Richards

Common Ostrich

The largest and heaviest living bird, the Common Ostrich is instantly recognizable by its long neck, powerful legs, and its speed across the ground – an important skill since it’s too big to fly.

Man in a safari vehicle watches Grevy's zebras through binoculars at Samburu National Reserve in Kenya
Watching Grevy’s zebras in Samburu National Reserve. Photo credit: Cindy Richards

The Samburu Special Five: Northern Kenya’s Exclusive Club!

The unique, dry landscapes of Northern Kenya at the Samburu National Reserve is the place to see the Special Five – the Beisa Oryx, Reticulated Giraffe, Grevy’s Zebra, Gerenuk, and Somali Ostrich.

Beisa Oryx standing under a tree in Samburu National Reserve in Kenya.
Beisa Oryx. Photo credit: Cindy Richards

Beisa Oryx

This handsome antelope of the dry grasslands sports long, straight, spear-like horns and cool black markings on its face and legs. They get all of the water they need from the plants they eat.

Reticulated giraffe in Samburu National Reserve in Kenya
Reticulated Giraffe. Photo credit: Cindy Richards

Reticulated Giraffe

One of three types of giraffe found in Kenya, the Reticulated Giraffe sports a gorgeous coat of blocky reddish-brown spots separated by sharp white lines. Just like fingerprints, every Reticulated Giraffe has a one-of-a-kind spot pattern.

3 Grevy's zebras grazing in Samburu National Reserve in Kenya
Grevy’s zebras are notable for their thin, elegant stripes, white bellies and silly Mickey Mouse ears. Photo credit: Cindy Richards

Grevy’s Zebra

The biggest and most endangered of all zebra species, Grevy’s Zebras look more elegant than their cousins, the Common Zebra, thanks to their thinner, more numerous stripes and pure white belly. But their most distinguishing attribute is their large, rounded, fuzzy Mickey Mouse ears.

Gerenuks in Samburu National Reserve in Kenya standing up on their hind legs to reach higher branches for food.
Long-necked gerenuks stand on their hind legs to eat from the higher branches. Photo credit: frederic.salein – originally posted to Flickr as Gerenuks in Samburu via Wikimedia

Gerenuk

Meaning “giraffe-necked” in Somali, this super elegant antelope is known for its incredibly long, slender neck and delicate build. To eat, they stand on their back legs and use their front legs to pull down branches, letting them reach higher deliciousness than other antelopes.

Somali ostrich mama and her baby in Kenya
A Somali ostrich mama and her baby. Photo credit: Christine Tibbetts

Somali Ostrich

Once thought to be just a type of Common Ostrich, the Somali Ostrich was officially recognized as its own species in 2014. Male Somali Ostriches sport a striking blue-grey neck and thighs, especially when they’re looking for love, setting them apart from their pinker-necked cousins.

The Small Five: Proof That Great Things Come in Tiny Packages!

While the Big Five might grab all the glory, if you’ve got a sharp eye and a curious mind, you’ll discover the Small Five, named after their larger, more famous counterparts. We did not spot any of these tiny guys during our safari, but I added some generic photos so you’ll know what they look like.

Antlion larvae
Antlion larvae, when the bugs are most dangerous. Photo credit: Joseph Berger, / © Bugwood.org via Wikimedia

Antlion

This fascinating insect digs clever cone-shaped pits in sandy soil, then hides at the bottom, waiting for unsuspecting ants to tumble in. When they do, the antlion uses its powerful jaws to grab its meal, just like a lion ambushing its prey.

Red-billed buffalo weaver, a bird found in Kenya
Red-billed Buffalo Weaver. Photo credit: Bernard DUPONT from FRANCE via Wikimedia

Buffalo Weaver

Specifically, the Red-billed Buffalo Weaver is a social bird that thrives in East Africa’s dry savannas. While not as imposing as a buffalo, it’s a lively and noisy part of the avian community. They are communal birds who build massive nests in acacia trees that can house multiple families.

Elephant shrew
Elephant shrew. Photo credit: By Joey Makalintal from Pennsylvania, USA via Wikimedia

Elephant Shrew

Also known as a Sengi, this little mammal is famous for its long, flexible snout that looks like a mini elephant trunk. Despite the “shrew” in their name, they’re actually more closely related to elephants, aardvarks, and manatees than to shrews.

Leopard tortoise
Leopard Tortoise. Photo credit: Bernard DUPONT from FRANCE via Wikimedia

Leopard Tortoise

Named for its stunning shell pattern that mimics a leopard’s spots, this is one of Africa’s largest and most beautiful tortoise species. They can live for 50 years or more in the wild.

rhinocerous beetle
Rhinoceros beetle. Photo credit: Tony King, https://www.inaturalist.org/observations/145295756 via Wikimedia

Rhinoceros Beetle

This impressive insect is famous for the male’s awesome, horn-like projections that resemble a rhino’s horn. Among the strongest creatures on Earth for their size, a rhinoceros beetle is capable of lifting an incredible 850 times their own weight.

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Am I Too Old to Take an African Safari? https://shebuystravel.com/am-i-too-old-to-take-an-african-safari/ https://shebuystravel.com/am-i-too-old-to-take-an-african-safari/#comments Wed, 11 Jun 2025 19:51:00 +0000 https://shebuystravel.com/?p=441529

Packing for 18 days of travel, with 14 of ‘em in the vastness of Kenya’s savanna and bush created a whirlpool of what-if decisions for me: Fast forward to the...

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Packing for 18 days of travel, with 14 of ‘em in the vastness of Kenya’s savanna and bush created a whirlpool of what-if decisions for me:

  • What if age 77 is too old for this to be smart?
  • Do I need different stuff from the younger ones to be protected?  
  • Who publishes that packing list?
  • My kids and grandkids aren’t going, so who knows my infirmities?

Fast forward to the happy answer now that I’m home again:

  • Not too old.
  • Not impossible.
  • Immensely happy for my safari experiences.

But I’ve got some suggestions for the next old widow lady making this trek.

Step Up

Blending into the environment is wise for game drive vehicles. Capture Kenya Expeditions chose green with narrow upper trim of khaki.
Safari landcruiser with pop-up top offers a front passenger seat and three rows of two seats. The first step to get in is long and narrow. Hoisting into the seat is a bigger distance; the side handle helps. Photo credit: Christine Tibbetts

Curious there’s no such thing as seeing too many zebras, or giraffe or elephants, or multi-colored birds whose names are impossible to remember.

That means climbing into the Capture Kenya Expeditions Toyota Land Cruiser safari truck again and again. “Been there, done that” does not equate to seeing majestic animals. Going again is always right.

The UP is high, and narrow from ground to seat. Stepping down and out when the game drive is over is scarier, even though the distance is the same.

Sure, my safari guide had a handy step stool, but I felt better about myself hoisting up and down on my own, gripping the handles, of course.

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My Advice:

Practice at home. Two steps up and over. Make sure the practice step is way narrower than your foot length.

As for the handle-grabbing, maybe lift some five-pound weights before the trip to build some muscle strength.

Balance

A mama elephant and her baby walk through tall grasses, as white egret birds perch on their backs.
Egrets often join elephants in Kenya, resting on their backs as families roam the savanna, eating as they walk. Photo credit: Christine Tibbetts

Safari vehicles have pop-up tops. Looking out while upright is much grander than staying seated. I chose standing only when the vehicle was stopped.

My Advice:

Practice standing at home with your feet crowded. Build balance muscle memory taking little steps amidst travel satchels and accumulated stuff sure to fill the safari vehicle floor.

It’s more awkward than it sounds.

Insurance

Of course, I updated my annual Allianz travel insurance coverage. I’m used to prices going up as I age and continue to immerse myself in adventure.

Game drives add a new consideration: they’re remote and the roads are dreadful.

My Advice:

Choose a safari company that provides additional insurance that will get you from the remote savanna to places where your personal insurance can take over. My safari company, Capture Kenya Expeditions, includes that insurance for all of its customers.

Game Park Lodges

One wheelchair and a kid-sized bike rest next to a small pond with tall grasses and a few lily pads in a safari lodge lobby.
Wheelchairs and bicycles are rare sights in safari lodges. Photo credit: Christine Tibbetts

Accommodations and meals can be quite lovely, and comforting.

They can also have stairs and sloping sidewalks and not always handrails. Travel-mates willing to lend me an arm on down slopes made my safety difference.

Only once did I see wheelchairs available to borrow. And the lodge solution for the dining area accessed with two short flights of steps was room service—unhappy loss of group energies.

Most lodge meals are buffet style; if walking and carrying plates is iffy, that’s not a problem. Staff always seemed to notice my need before I even asked.

My advice:

Don’t hesitate to ask discreetly for the help you need, from fellow travelers or from staff.

A golden crowned crane, the national bird of Uganda, pictured in a field in Kenya.
Bird watching is a big deal in Kenya game parks. This is the national bird of Uganda, the golden crowned crane. Photo credit: Christine Tibbetts

Take Less

Changing lodges every night or two to experience yet another set of wonders in a different game park in Kenya meant lugging safari luggage, never unpacking.

Sure I could (and did!) tip willing staff to move my bag from safari vehicle to bedroom but spaces were not spacious so suitcase(s) are best not large.

Plus, windows rolled down and top popped up is the marvel of buffalo and warthog and wildebeest sightings, so re-wearing the same-old dusty clothes day after day is the right plan.  

Animals are the fashion statement on safari, not me. I’m sure I was as dusty as they.

My advice:

Packing light is always the best advice, for anyone, going anywhere.

Queezy, with Neck Tension

Potholes take on a whole new significance on safari. Expect them, in abundance. We spent long days bouncing over rutted trails in the game parks. Even the “streets” were more pothole than pavement.

Expect to be bounced, tossed and shaken during your rides. That’s how deep the ruts, constantly challenging even the most skilled of drivers.

My Advice:

Ginger tablets can help settle stomachs. Real medicine is a good idea for people prone to car sickness.

Neck pillows supporting wobbly heads on long flights could move right into the safari vehicle. I wished for the whiplash neck support given me once by EMTs after a car crash.

Kenya blue skies with layers of clouds in narrow white wisps reach behind a lush green mountain in a Maasai village. Women in colorful shukas--soft cloths tied around their shoulders-sing in a line in front of their modest square homes.
Maasai women gather outside their homes to sing and dance for visitors before milking their cows. Photo credit: Christine Tibbetts

Open Mind, Open Space

I’m lots more tolerant, and accepting the older I get. Curious more than judging.

Those are great traits to open up while planning an African safari, especially with an itinerary allowing time among the Maasai people. Create space before leaving home to simply observe a different worldview that works just fine for others.

My Advice:

Read One of Them, My Life Among the Maasai of Kenya, by Eti Dayan. It’s the first-person story of a woman from Israel who moved in to a Maasai village, living and loving and learning in new ways. Read this not so much for details about cultural practices as to considering your own reaction, and then opening new space for accepting.  

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Tips for Making the Most of a Bucket List African Safari in Kenya https://shebuystravel.com/safari-tips/ https://shebuystravel.com/safari-tips/#respond Wed, 11 Jun 2025 19:40:00 +0000 https://shebuystravel.com/?p=440652

An African safari had been at the top of my personal bucket list for years before I finally got the chance to go. Even as an intrepid traveler who had...

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An African safari had been at the top of my personal bucket list for years before I finally got the chance to go. Even as an intrepid traveler who had been wishing for this experience for years, I was a little intimidated by the idea of actually going. What would I pack? Would this trip really tick all of the boxes for me? What did I need to know before going?

Here’s what I learned along the way.

Choose the Right Safari Company

There are many. Some offer canned itineraries. Others, like Capture Kenya Expeditions, the tour company I used, are fully custom. (Here’s where to read the full review of my Capture Kenya Safari.)

Know What Kind of Safari You Want

There are safaris aimed at birders. Safaris for people who like history. People who like elephants. Or lions. Or giraffes. Think about what you most want out of your time in Africa before you plan the trip.

Safari guide packing the car with luggage
Our Capture Kenya safari guides had a daily Tetris challenge: Getting 11 people’s luggage packed into three vehicles. Photo credit: Cindy Richards

Pack Light

You’ll be moving around if you want to see all this enchanting country has to offer. Bring clothes that can easily be washed in the sink and drip dry overnight. Many of the lodges offer laundry service, but it can put a dent in your budget. I paid $10 to have one pair of sweatpants laundered so I would have clean clothes for the plane ride home.

Beadwork done by Maasai women in Kneya
Look for unique beaded pieces created by the talented Maasai women. Photo credit: Cindy Richards

Budget for Purchases

I am not a big shopper. I rarely buy more than a pair of earrings on a trip. They are light, easy to pack, and a reminder of a magical trip every time I wear them. But the offerings in Africa are unique. I even bought a few small pieces of art that I will hang on the walls when I get home – a daily reminder of this enchanting country.

SheBuysTravel Tip: Start looking in the gift shop of the hotel where you stay on your first night in Nairobi. It will give you an idea of the price and quality of the jewelry, carvings and other products that you will see during your trip. 

Bring Wipes and Masks

The Covid pandemic might be over, but the dust in Africa is real. I was happy to have a mask to cover my nose and mouth and wipes to freshen up after a particularly dusty stretch on a game drive.

Investigate the Safari Vehicle

We saw all kinds – some were small VW-like vans with small windows – don’t take those if you want a real view of the animals. Others were open-air, offering the best views, but the ride could be chilly and very dusty. Our modified Toyota Land Cruiser had 7 comfortable passenger seats so we each got a window. And it had a top that raised, allowing us to stand for a 360-degree views.

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Not all of the animals are as courteous as this giraffe, which posed close to our safari truck. Bring binoculars so you can get a closer look at the ones who are more stand-offish. Photo credit: Deb Thompson

Bring Binoculars

If you’re lucky, the wildlife will come to you. But when they don’t, pull out the binoculars so you can go to them.

Understand that You Won’t Get Much Exercise

We spent hours in the Land Cruiser driving from one lodge to the next or diving around the national parks looking for lions, elephants, rhinos, giraffes, wildebeest and scores of other species. While I wouldn’t trade a minute of it, my hips were not happy with all that sitting. A few days, I woke extra early to get a few minutes for yoga before we headed out.

A Capture Kenya safari truck drives next to a lone elephant in Kenya.
You’ll spend a lot of time riding safely inside your safari vehicle. Photo credit: Cindy Richards

Bring Small Bills

In Kenya at least, US dollars are widely accepted. Bring singles and fives to tip the bellhops, housekeepers, waitresses and bartenders. Don’t expect to add the tip to the credit card bill – that money may not make it to the servers. Leave cash instead.

And understand that a small tip is plenty. We took some Kenyan friends to dinner in Nairobi and, after much discussion, left a $20 tip on the $125 bill. They thought it was far too generous and we thought it was far too skimpy. Generally, a 10 percent tip is considered reasonable in Kenya.

Plan for Motion Sickness

Even the “highways” in Africa can be bumpy and the gravel and dirt roads in the game areas are filled with potholes. It’s technically not off-roading since you’ll be driving on the “roads,” but it certainly feels like off-roading. If you have motion sickness, bring the treatment you need – don’t expect to find it once you arrive. The same goes for back or neck challenges. Sitting in the front of the safari vehicle vs. the back can help, but there’s only one front seat.

Free Up Space on Your Phone

You’ll be taking A LOT of photos. There is wonder everywhere. You won’t want to miss the shot of that elusive leopard because you’ve used up all of the space on your phone!

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