Two Sisters Go Cruising around Norway

Barbara Redding Avatar
A ship in the Geiranger Fjord dwarfed by steep cliffs.
A ship cruising through the Geiranger Fjord in Norway. Photo credit: Barbara Redding

Our Norwegian great-grandmother inspired my sister and me to embark on a “Sisters Cruise” along the fjord-punctuated coast of Norway.

Learning more about Sina Nielson’s journey to the U.S. nearly 175 years ago sparked our desire to explore Norway’s stunning scenery, get to know its resilient people and celebrate our heritage.

Our seven-day cruise with Havila Voyages took us from Bergen in the south to Kirkenes, near the Russian border. Along the way, we crossed the Arctic Circle and basked in 24 hours of daylight under the Midnight Sun.

Here are my tips and advice for exploring Norway’s coast with Havila Voyages.

The author was hosted.

SheBuysTraval Tip: Combine a cruise with extra time in Oslo and Bergen. Norway’s largest cities offer a wealth of fascinating art museums, historic sites and cultural attractions.

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Author and her sister Linda toast glasses with wine on their sisters cruise.
The author, right, and her sister Linda Redding aboard the Pollux cruise ship. Photo credit: Barbara Redding

Why We Chose Havila Voyages

Pollux cruise ship in a fjord.
The Pollux, is one of Havila’s four modern, eco-friendly ships, Photo credit: Barbara Redding

With more than 1,000 fjords and 320,000 islands, Norway’s jagged coastline can best be explored by sea.

Many cruise lines offer routes with stops in Norway. We chose a seven-day northbound cruise with Havila Voyages because of its Norwegian roots, sustainable practices and Norway-only itinerary.

Havila’s four modern ships sail along a century-old ferry route, delivering people, freight and mail to 34 ports year-round. Passengers can spend the day, book cabins for a night or take  the entire 13-day round-trip journey.

  • Mid-size ships: With a maximum of 640 passengers, the vessels are small enough to navigate narrow fjords.
  • Eco-friendly travel: Havila’s fleet sails quietly using large battery packs and switches to liquefied natural gas (LNG), reducing carbon emissions by more than 35 percent.
  • Nordic ambiance: Clean, minimalist design reflects Norway’s deep connection to nature.
  • Slow travel philosophy: There’s time to savor each passing scene—from mist-shrouded lighthouses to tumbling waterfalls.
  • Diverse passenger mix: The cruise is popular with Europeans, but also attracts people from around the world.

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The Ship’s Vibe: Sleek, Warm and Focused on the Views

Large windows and glass ceilings in Pollux cruise ship.
Panoramic windows and glass ceilings bring Norway’s stunning scenery inside. Photo credit: Barbara Redding

Our adventure began on a cool, overcast day in Bergen, Norway’s gateway to the fjords.

The sleek Nordic design of our ship, the Pollux, is impressive. Inside, muted tones mirror the blue hues of the sea and sky. Bursts of color from original Norwegian artwork add warmth and vibrancy. An attentive crew, mostly Norwegian and multilingual, creates an authentic experience.

The Observation Lounge

Panoramic windows and glass ceilings in the Observation Lounge offer unobstructed views when the wind grows too fierce to be outside. Curling up in lounge chairs, we watched the scenery unfold in quiet comfort with a glass of wine

Accommodations

Bedroom in a suite aboard the Pollux cruise ship.
Suites aboard the Pollux also include a balcony. Photo credit: Barbara Redding

Accommodations are compact yet thoughtfully designed. Our seaview superior twin was  smaller than our childhood bedroom but roomy enough for two. Storage is minimal, so pack light.

Cabin Highlights:

  • Views: Picture windows or balconies in nearly 80 percent of the cabins allow sight-seeing without leaving the room
  • Blackout curtains: make sleeping possible during the Midnight Sun
  • Conveniences: sofa, desk, mini-refrigerator, flatscreen TV and electric tea kettle
  • Bathrooms: small but sufficient.

Cabin Options:

  • Seaview superior cabins: More than half of Havila’s 179 cabins, including ours.
  • Suites with balconies: Around 24 spacious options, with some featuring fireplaces and private Jacuzzis.
  • Inside cabins: About 40, accommodating one to four guests.

Dining at Sea: A Celebration of Norwegian Flavors

Turbot fish served with caviar and capers.
Turbot with caviar and capers featured in Hildring fine dining room. Photo credit: Barbara Redding

A la carte dishes made with fresh ingredients from the sea and local farms fill lunch and dinner menus in the main dining room. Options change every few days as the ship sails through different regions.

A seafood lover, my favorites included Lofoten cod, Varanger king crab, salmon and mussels. Other options: Dovrefjell lamb and apple cake made with fruit from Hardangerfjord. Each dish arrives perfectly plated, thanks to the ship’s talented team.

To reduce food waste, there are no buffets except at breakfast. Portions are modest, but you can request as many dishes as you’d like. The servings fit our appetites, making us less likely to overorder and overeat. Choosing dessert is challenging, however. We picked two and shared.  

Dining Options

Picture windows in Havrand dining room insure good views with food.
Picture windows in the Havrand ensure you can dine without missing a view. Photo credit: Barbara Redding
  • Havrand Restaurant: Included, serving three daily meals.
  • Havly Café: Perfect for snacks, burgers, pizza or irresistible morning pastries.
  • Hildring Fine Dining: Complimentary for suite guests or available for a splurge. We treated ourselves to a five-course seafood dinner, with wines chosen by Peter, our thoughtful waiter.

Onboard Life: Nature Takes Center Stage

Guests on bow of Pollux view scenery.
Guests enjoy nonstop views of nature from the bow of the Pollux. Photo credit: Barbara Redding

Havila designs its ships and itineraries for mindful travelers who prefer stunning scenery to casinos, Broadway-style shows or dance parties. Instead, the landscape delivers the drama.

When the ship is at sea, the outside deck chairs fill up with guests in windbreakers and sneakers looking to spot whales and passing fishing boats. The atmosphere is informal and friendly among passengers and crew.

Other passenger options:

  • Sip coffee or cocktails in the Observation Lounge.
  • Play cards or read.
  • Relax in the sauna or outdoor hot tubs.
  • Work out in the gym, which has sea views.

Curated Activities on the Ship

Expedition team member shares cultural information.
Our expedition director shares Norwegian history with Pollux cruisers. Photo credit: Barbara Redding
  • Daily Presentations: Expedition director Magne Skjærdal brings Norway’s history, culture and Viking legends to life. He also introduces local artists and musicians and Norwegian phrases like “Takk du” (“Thank you”).
  • Arctic Circle Ceremony: Passengers celebrate crossing the Arctic Circle with champagne at breakfast. Later, a costumed “Norse sea god” inducts passengers into the Arctic Explorers Club with a scoop of ice down our backs.

Ports, Excursions and Unforgettable Moments

Colorful timber buildings on waterfront in Trondheim.
Colorful timber warehouses line waterways inTrondheim. Photo credit: Barbara Redding

Cruise ship stops last just 10 minutes in small towns. Docking in larger cities like Trondheim and Tromsø stretches into several hours, making independent exploration possible.

Still, shore excursions offer more opportunities for active pursuits and leisurely outings. Winter excursions highlight the Northern Lights, dog sledding and snowmobiling. Summer excursions include bike tours, nature hikes and cultural experiences. Excursions cost extra, vary by season and may change due to the weather.

SheBuysTravel Tip: Bring binoculars and a camera with a long lens to take optimum advantage of coastal scenery from the ship and on excursions.

Port Stops with Cathedrals and Wine Bars

  •  Trondheim: Norway’s third most populous city is known for colorful timber warehouses lining waterways and a medieval cathedral where the Viking king who introduced Christianity is buried. We explored the city on foot.
  •  Tromso: Polar explorers like Norway’s Roald Amundsen, the first man to reach the South Pole, trained in Tromso. Today, the city welcomes summer hikers and winter adventurers seeking the Northern Lights. We shopped and stopped at a wine bar.
Statue of a fisherman's wife waving in the Lofoten harbor.
A statue in Lofoten harbor of a fisherman’s wife looking out to sea. Photo credit: Barbara Redding

Excursions to Fjords and Fishing Villages

  • Geiranger Fjord: Tours of this UNESCO World Heritage site include stops at a visitor center to learn how Ice Age glaciers created the fjords. There’s a walk down 327 steps along a waterfall and a bus ride to a steep cliff for breathtaking views of the turquoise waters below.
  • Lofoten Archipelago: A fascinating museum details the hardships of Lofoten fishermen and their families in this rugged, rain-soaked paradise of jagged peaks and sheltered bays. Though North Sea oil drives Norway’s economy today, cod fishing remains vital even as tourist visits skyrocket.
  • North Cape Bird Safari: A thrilling ride in a fishing boat to one of Norway’s largest seabird colonies. Puffins, sea eagles and seals make their homes on a craggy rock island.
  • Sami Cultural Visit: Around a fire in a traditional turf hut, an elder in the Davvi Siida village recounts the history of Norway’s indigenous people and their reindeer herds. He demonstrates traditional crafts and performs a mesmerizing “joik,” a haunting Sami folk song. Look for reindeer grazing near the village.
A Sami elder and an interpreter share Sami customs.
A Sami elder, with an interpreter, shares stories about Norway’s indigenous people. Photo credit: Barbara Redding

Practical Tips for Cruising Norway

Two women wearing warm clothing while birdwatching.
Birdwatchers dress for windy, cool weather in northern Norway. Photo credit Barbara Redding
  • Layers, warm and weatherproof clothing.
  • Waterproof shoes or boots.
  • A tight-knit cap or hooded jacket. (Arctic winds are no joke!)
  • Seasickness bands or medication. We put on our bands once while crossing the Barents Sea.

Best Time to Go

We traveled in early June, before visitors flock to Norway for cool-weather summer vacations. We lucked out with mostly sunny days, but expect rain and strong winds year-round.

  • June to September: Long days, Midnight Sun, ideal for fjord cruising.
  • February to April: Winter trips focus on Northern Lights experiences and Arctic adventures.

Pre- and Post-Cruise Ideas

Norwegian flag flies on Pollux cruise ship sailing through fjord.
The Pollux sailing through a narrow fjord. Photo credit: Barbara Redding
  • Bergen: Visit the fish market, stroll the UNESCO-listed Bryggen wooden buildings on the waterfront or join a Havila-guided city tour.
  • Kirkenes: Check out the Snowhotel, ride a snowmobile or hike with huskies.

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Barbara Redding is a freelance travel writer based in Austin, Texas. A retired journalist, she loves to explore new destinations and revisit familiar places. She’s written about finding the world’s largest statue of Jesus in Poland, a Hindu wedding in India, snorkeling in Cuba’s Bay of Pigs, and saving sea turtles in Jamaica. You can read more of her articles on her website.
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