There’s something wildly romantic about sailing into Alaska—where snow-draped mountains meet the sea, glaciers crackle in the distance and eagles soar overhead.
When I was invited to sail with Holland America Line to explore their Glacier Discovery Cruise from Vancouver to Whittier, I knew exactly who to bring—my husband. What followed was a week of epic landscapes, small moments, and a deeper kind of travel experience we both needed.
This cruise was hosted. All opinions are entirely my own.
A One-Way Route to Adventure
Holland America’s Glacier Discovery Northbound cruise begins in Vancouver and sails one-way to Whittier, Alaska, near Anchorage. This route is ideal for travelers who want to extend their trip inland afterward. The route includes Glacier Bay and College Fjord, two of Alaska’s most spectacular glacial regions. With easy transfer options and customizable pre-and post-cruise packages, Holland America makes the logistics smooth—whether you fly, drive, or want to add more adventure on land.
We cruised in mid-June and lucked into blue skies, active wildlife, and long daylight hours. Searching for whales from our veranda became a morning ritual—Alaska delivers even before breakfast. Each port on the northbound route has its own pace and personality.
SheBuysTravel Tip: Book excursions early. Some popular glacier hikes, wildlife experiences and active tours sell out quickly. Log in to your Holland America account portal before you sail to browse and reserve excursions. Prefer a more local feel? Consider booking smaller third-party tours independently.
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Ketchikan: Boats, Boardwalks, and a Bit of Wild
Ketchikan surprised me in the best way. We zipped across the bay in an inflatable boat to a forested island, where a naturalist-led us through the mossy trails of the Tongass National Forest. Tidepools revealed starfish, crabs, and tiny anemones—nature’s little treasures.
Back in town, we wandered historic Creek Street, once a red-light district, now full of charm and color. Salmon leaped in the river roaring below the wooden boardwalk, and I couldn’t resist ducking into a few shops for souvenirs to take home. It was the perfect mix of adventure and unscripted discovery.
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Juneau Your Way: Glaciers, Waterfalls, and Local Flavor
While my husband enjoyed a day of salmon fishing, I opted to explore Juneau on my own. I started with a ride up the Mount Roberts Tramway for panoramic views and crisp mountain air, then followed a wildflower-lined trail lined with totems.
Later, I hopped on a trolley to Mendenhall Glacier. The walk to Nugget Falls was easy and rewarding, with a cool mist on my face at the base of the falls. We met up at the end of the day and compared notes with glacier cocktails and fresh halibut. Juneau gave us space to wander—and made the day feel entirely our own.
Skagway: Gold Rush Tales and Mountain Rails
Skagway delivered that old Alaska feel. Known as the gateway to the Yukon, it once funneled thousands of fortune-seekers into the wild. We boarded the White Pass & Yukon Route Railway for a slow climb into the clouds, crossing trestle bridges and passing waterfalls along the Gold Rush trail. I pressed my face to the window like a kid—those mountain views never get old.
After a salmon bake in an old miner’s camp, we wandered the town, browsing wooden storefronts and the Red Onion Saloon. No pressure, no big crowds—just a relaxed day connecting with Alaska’s frontier past on our own terms.
Glaciers Encounters: Alaska’s Icy Heartbeat
We felt lucky to see Alaska’s glaciers up close—by ship, the only way to reach these remote, icy giants unless you book a flightseeing tour. From the wraparound decks of the Nieuw Amsterdam, we had nonstop views—no excursions needed.
In Glacier Bay, Rangers and Huna Tlingit guides boarded the ship, sharing powerful stories as Margerie Glacier cracked and calved into the sea. The next day, we cruised College Fjord, where Harvard Glacier—over a mile wide—stood like a frozen giant. Seals lounged on floating ice; the silence was cathedral-like, and witnessing it felt like a gift.
SheBuysTravel Tip: Bring binoculars (and use them!). While the ship gets you remarkably close to glaciers and wildlife, binoculars make all the difference. Spotting a bald eagle in the treetops or watching sea otters bob in the distance adds another level of magic.
Onboard Life: Quiet Luxury and Personal Space
Holland America strikes a balance many couples appreciate—well-designed, relaxed, and never too crowded. Our verandah stateroom gave us room to unwind, with a sofa, desk, and private balcony. Room service, available any time, felt like a small luxury—perfect for slow mornings or quiet time between ports.
On days at sea, we found cozy reading spots, attended fascinating wildlife talks led by the ship’s naturalist and joined a cultural talk with an Alaska Native speaker. Trivia contests, mixology classes, and romantic dinners at Pinnacle Grill added just the right amount of fun. From the balcony or open deck, that golden Alaska light was unforgettable.
What I Was Asked by Friends, More Than Once
- Best side of the ship? Starboard (right) often faces the coast on northbound cruises, but views from both sides and all decks are great.
- Can I bring a water bottle? Yes! Refillable bottles are encouraged and easy to fill onboard. Holland America promotes eco-friendly practices to reduce plastic waste.
- What’s great about the Inside Passage? Calm seas, lush fjords, and wildlife galore. Glacier Bay and College Fjord bring a bit more motion—but also the biggest wow moments.
- Dress code? Mostly smart casual. Gala Nights are dressier but not black tie. Casual dining options are always available.
SheBuysTravel Tip: Layer like a local. Alaska weather shifts fast—sun, wind, and mist can all show up in one day. Pack light layers you can add or shed easily. A waterproof jacket, fleece, and sturdy walking shoes are key. Don’t forget gloves and a hat—glacier days can still feel chilly, even in summer.
Extend the Magic: After the Cruise
Because this sailing ends in Whittier, you are perfectly positioned to extend the trip. We chose to head to Anchorage via motorcoach, then on to Seward by train. Holland America offers Land + sea Journeys that combine the cruise with stays at their Denali lodge. Or you can go DIY with hotel bookings in Anchorage or a glacier cruise in Seward.
Adding even one night gives you more time to adjust—and more chances to see Alaska’s incredible landscapes.
Romance, Reconnection, and a New Perspective
Some couples want a big adventure. Others long for stillness and time to reconnect. This cruise gave us both. From watching glaciers calve to long, quiet mornings together, every day invited us to slow down and take it all in.
We came home with more than photos. We came home to ourselves—and to each other—reminded of how travel can deepen connection, shift perspective and create shared memories that last far beyond the trip.
So, if Alaska’s on your bucket list, don’t wait. It’s not just a destination—it’s a powerful reminder of what really matters, and how travel can bring us home in more ways than one.
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